I  / 


MOLONt'S 


M  O  L  O  N  Y  '  S 

MASTERPIECE     ON 

WOOL,  SILK  AND  COTTON 
DYEING: 

CONTAINING 

HIS  BEST  RECEIPTS, 
WITHOUT   THE  LEAST  RESERVE; 

ACCORDINO 

TO    HIS    PRACTICE    IN 

GREAT    BRITAIN    AND    AMERICA. 


BY 


LOWELL; 
PRINTED  BY  DEARBORN  &  BELLOWS, 

CORNER  OF  CENTRAL  AND  MIDDLE  STREETS. 

1837. 


Entered  according  to  an  Act  of  Congress,  in  the  year  1837, 

BY  CORNELIUS  MOLONY, 
in  the  Clerk's  Office  of  the  District  Court  of  Massachuietti. 


PREFACE 


The  Author  of  tho  following  pages,  wrote  the  work  entitled 
the  "Practical  Dyer,"  in  1833,  also  the  "Modern  Wool  Dyer." 
in  1834.  Hia  former  works  being  so  saiisfactory  to  persons  en- 
gaged in  his  profession  and  also  to  manufacturers,  that  he  was  so- 
licited by  a  number  of  his  friends,  to  write  this  work,  in  which  he 
pledges  himself  to  mention  the  result  of  his  best  experienee,  and 
state  his  improvements,  and  not  curtail  anything  on  the  subject 
of  Dyeing  that  he  considers  useful  to  the  manufacturing  interests 
of  the  country. 


RECOMMENDATIONS. 

Mr.  Cornelius  Molony  has  been  in  my  employment  for  the  pur- 
pose of  communicating  information  in  the  Art  of  Dyeing,  and  has 
given  good  satisfaction.  I  think  him  worthy  of  the  patronage  of 
those  who  desire  an  acquaintance  with  those  processes  of  the 
Art  which  have  not  obtained  a  general  circulation  among  native 
artists  in  the  United  States,  His  knowledge  in  woad  dyeing  1 
presume  is  also  thorough,  he  having  conducted  a  woad  vat  for  me 
about  two  months.  WILLIAM  BARRETT. 

Maiden,  February  22,  1830. 


This  is  to  certify,  that  Mr.  Cornelius  Molony  has  been  in  our 
employ  as  a  Practical  Dyer,  and  has  evinced  himself  to  be  master 
of  his  profession. 

MELZAR  WATERMAN  &  CO. 

Roxbury,  July  1,  1831. 


Mr.  Cornelius  Molony  has  been  in  my  employment,  for  the  par- 
pose  of  communicating  information  in  the  art  of  Dyeing.  I  wai 
much  pleased  with  him  while  in  my  employ.  1  do  highly  re- 
commend his  knowledge  in  producing  colours  on  Silk,  Cotton  and 
Woolen  Goods,  on  the  principle  as  practiced  in  some  the  largest 
establishments  in  Great  Britain  and  America.  He  has  been  thou" 
sands  of  dollars  worth  of  benefit  to  the  United  States,  in  comrau^ 
nicating  information  on  the  art  of  Dyeing. 

DAVID  CROWLY. 
Agent  of  Lynn  Dyeing  and  Printing  Establishment. 

Lynn,  September  29,  1834. 

Mr.  Cornelius  Molony  has  been  employed  in  the  dye  house  of 
the  Lowell  Carpet  Factory,  something  like  two  years.  He  is  a 
first  rate  workman,  an  honest  and  faithful  man;  and  has,  by  the 
publication  of  two  valuable  works  on  Dyeing,  in  my  opinion, 
done  essential  service  to  the  manufacturing  interests  of  the  coun- 
try. ALEXANDER  WRIGHT. 
Superintendent  of  Lowell  Manufacturing  Carpet  Co. 

Lowell,  June  6.  1834. 


This  19  to  certify,  that  f  have  practised  the  receipts  of  Mr.  Mo- 
iony'g  book  the  last  two  years,  entitled  "The  Practical  Dyer," 
1  have  also  proved  his  receipts  at  Mr.  Aaron  Hale's,  of  Troy.  I 
feel  positive  it  is  the  best  publication  on  the  subject  of  Dyeing, 
ever  before  offered  to  the  public. 

LUCIUS  B^NUTING. 

Troy,  Junt  9,  1635. 


This  is  to  certify  that  I  have  in    possession  a  book   of  Mr.  Mo- 

lony's  entitled  "  The  Practical  Dyer."     1  feel  satisfied  that  it  is 

the  best  work  on  the  subject  of  Dyeing,  extant. 

AARON  HALE. 
Troy,  June  10.  1835. 


M  O  L  O  N  Y 

ON     DYEING, 


Method  of  Scouring  Fine  WooJ^  as  practised  in  the 
JVorth  and  West  of  England, 
A  kettle  containing  from  40  to  50  gallons  is  a 
very  convenient  size ;  though  some  prefer  a  larger 
vessel  to  do  the  business  more  expeditiously.  I  do 
not  approve  of  putting  any  more  than  from  10  to 
14  lbs.  at  most,  of  wool  in  a  kettle  at  once  ;  as  it 
could  be  turned  round  brisker,  and  is  consequently 
not  so  much  matted  or  settled  as  by  having  in  a 
greater  quantity  ;  and  I  likewise  presume  it  can  be 
cleansed  better  in  the  scouring.  Heat  the  water  in 
the  kettle  to  130  degrees  Fahrenheit's  Thermome- 
ter. Make  up  the  kettle  with  the  proportion  of  one 
pail  of  stale  urine  to  two  pails  soft  water  at  the 
above  heat.  Increase  when  the  urine  and  water 
are  in  the  kettle,  and  both  mixed  for  the  scouring — 
lather  to  be  130  deg.  of  heat.  Then  put  in  the 
wool.  Stir  it  around  with  a  pole,  so  as  not  to  re- 
verse it,  as  it  would  mat  it,  and  consequently  put  it 
in  a  bad  condition.     If  the  liquor,  as  dyers  term  it, 


8  Molony  on  Dyeing, 

is  in  good  condition,  it  will  shew  a  frothy  substance, 
in  the  similitude  of  a  soap  lather,  by  agitating  it 
with  a  stick  about  three  minutes,  which  is  as  mucli 
agitation  as  I  think  necessary. 

The  rinsing  box  ought  to  be  situated  within  3  or  4 
feet  of  the  scouring  vessel.  It  is  also  necessary 
that  the  water  come  in  through  the  bottom,  and  run 
out  through  both  sides  and  ends  of  the  rinsing  box. 
The  water  should  be  forcible  enough  to  agitate  the 
wool  sufficiently  to  cleanse  it,  without  a  man  turn- 
ing it  with  a  stick.  A  board  should  be  placed  on 
the  kettle  occasionally,  to  put  a  small  basket  or  box 
with  holes  in  the  bottom,  to  allow  the  scouring  liquor 
to  drain  in  the  kettle.  When  the  wool  is  taken  out 
of  the  scouring  kettle  into  the  basket,  do  not  allow 
it  to  drain  until  it  is  cold,  as  it  would  be  more  dif- 
ficult to  cleanse  the  lather  from  it  when  put  into 
rinsing  box.  If  the  wool  is  not  well  scoured  and 
well  cleansed  from  the  scouring,  if  to  be  dyed  blue, 
the  colour  will  be  dull  and  fugitive,  if  dyed  in  a 
woad  vat  when  in  the  highest  state  of  perfection. 
In  fact,  all  colours  will  have  a  similar  effect ;  there- 
fore I  think  it  very  important  to  woolen  manufac* 
turers,  to  employ  men  who  understand  scouring  both 
fine  and  coarse  wool,  as  it  differs  very  materially. 
When  the  scouring  liquor  gets  low,  make  it  up  ac- 
cording to  the  same  proportions  of  stren*th  and 
heat.  I  think  it  advisable  in  this  method  of  scour- 
ing, to  empty  the  kettle,  when  about  500  lbs.  of 
wool  has  been  scoured  in  it ;  though  I  have  known 


Molony  on  Dyeing.  9 

men  to  continue  until  they  had  scoured  2000  lbs. 
vvithqut  making  a  new  liquor,  (as  it  is  termed  in 
Dyer's  language)  and  succeed  very  well.  It  is  very 
reasonable  to  suppose  that  it  requires  more  rinsing 
in  the  cold  water,  than  it  would  if  done  otherwise- 


Method  of  Scouring  Coarse  Wool. 
Pursue  the  same  method  of  handling  in  the  kettle 
and  rinsing  box,  as  before  directed  on  fine  wool, 
with  the  difference  of  making  the  scouring  lather 
to  140  deg.  of  heat,  instead  of  130.  Use  one  part 
of  urine,  to  three  parts  of  water.  If  the  scouring 
lather  is  in  good  order,  when  stirred  3  or  4  minutes, 
it  will  have  a  white  lather  on  the  surface,  similar  to 
that  of  a  soap  lather.  If  that  be  the  case,  there  is 
not  the  smallest  doubt  of  the  wool  being  well  scour- 
ed. I  advise,  any  person  who  scours  coarse  wool, 
to  empty  the  kettle  when  500  lbs.  have  been  scour- 
ed, as  it  will  be  much  easier  rinsing  it  in  the  rin- 
sing box. 


On  Dyeing  Fine  Cloth  Blue  Black. 

The  goods  ought  to  be  perfectly  free  from  oil, 
otherwise  they  will  not  be  well  penetrated  with  the 
dye,  and  the  colouring  matter  which  would  adhere 
would  be  more  fugitive. 

First  Process. — The  cloth,  if  dry,  should  be  boil- 
ed one  hour  at  least ;  by  that  means  it  will  receive 


10  Molony  on  Dyeing. 

the  preparation  more  evenly,  owing  to  its  softening 
even  the  warp ;  consequently  it  will  be  better 
grounded,  than  it  would  otherwise  be. 

If  ihe  above  process  were  to  be  omitted,  the  cloth 
ought  to  be  well  spread  on  the  wynch ;  and  when 
taken  out  of  the  kettle  upon  the  wynch,  it  should 
not  be  allowed  to  drain  more  than  3  minutes;  then 
struck  oft' and  listed  out  its  full  width,  and  listed  4 
or  5  times  to  and  fro,  until  it  be  completely  cold  ; 
otherwise  wrinkles  would  appear,  which  could  not 
be  got  out  in  the  tenters,  nor  even  the  best  brush- 
ing mill  I  have  ever  seen,  would  not  contract. 

For  50  lbs  of  cloth,  dissolve  5  lbs  8  oz.  copperas, 
2  lbs.  8  oz.  sulphate  of  copper,  and  2  lbs.  red  tartar. 
Put  it  into  a  kettle,  of  convenient  size,  of  clear  wa- 
ter at  150  degrees  of  heat,  enter  the  cloth,  get  up  a 
brisk  fire  and  commence  boiling  and  wynching  ; 
continue  boiling  90  minutes,  run  some  cold  water 
into  the  kettle  to  stop  its  boiling,  then  wind  up  on 
the  wynch. 

In  all  cases  of  cloth  dyeing,  do  not  allow  it  to  re- 
main longer  than  3  or  4  minutes  to  drain,  then  cool 
it  well  at  its  full  width,  and  let  it  drain  on  the  wood- 
en horse  for  6  or  8  hours  at  least.  Prepare  as  much 
cloth  in  one  day  as  can  be  conveniently  dyed  the 
next  day ;  but  diminish  the  quantity  of  drugs 
about  one  fifth,  every  different  quantity  of  cloth ; 
and  observe  to  run  oflf  some  of  the  liquor  every 
time  a  fresh  quantity  of  goods  is  prepared,  so  as  to 
allow  it  to  be  cool  enough  to  enter  a  fresh  set.    For 


Molony  on  Dyeing.  1 1 

50  lbs.  of  cloth  prepared  as  above,  boil  up  about  6 
lbs.  (or  perhaps  7  lbs.  would  be  necessary,)  of  chip 
Campeachy  logwood.  Continue  boiling  it  one 
hour ;  then  put  24  oz.  of  pearlash,  (but  observe, 
cool  the  liquor  previously,)  then  rake  up  the  liquor  ; 
enter  the  cloth,  turn  it  rapidly  for  10  or  15  minutes, 
get  on  a  brisk  fire,  commence  boiling,  continue 
boiling  and  turning  the  cloth  until  deep  enough. 


Method  of  Cleansing  the  above  Cloth,  is  as  follows  : 
For  any  black  cloth,  get  some  fuller's  earth  and 
put  it  close  to  a  fire  or  in  a  stove  room,  so  as  to 
make  it  perfectly  dry ;  then  put  it  into  a  large  tub 
and  put  some  boiling  water  upon  it  to  dissolve  it ; 
then  make  it  a  little  thinner  with  water  and  sprink- 
le the  cloth  with  it — and  a  little  of  it  with  a  little 
dissolved  soap  ;  put  it  in  the  fulling  stocks  and  let 
the  hammers  work  on  it  for  15  or  20  minutes ;  then 
run  the  water  upon  it  till  it  is  perfectly  clean  and 
done. 


Method  of  Dyeing  Jet  Black,  50  lbs.  Fine  Cloth  made 
of  Saxony  or  fine  Spanish  WooL 
Take  a  convenient  sized  kettle  at  170  degrees  of 
heat,  dissolve  6  lbs.  of  sulphate  of  iron  (copperas,) 
and  3  lbs.  sulphate  of  copper ;  2  lbs.  red  tartar 
pulverised,  put  all  in  together,  rake  up  well,  enter 
the  cloths,  turn  briskly  for  10  or  15  minutes ;  get  on 


12  Molony  on  Dyeing, 

a  strong  fire,  commence  boiling  and  continue 
vvynching  for  90  minutes,  cool  the  kettle,  take  out 
the  cloth,  cool  it  and  list  it  out  straight. 

If  it  be  necessary  to  prepare  any  more  goods  in 
this  liquor,  use  about  one  fifth  less  drugs,  as  8  or 
10  times  the  above  quantity  might  be  prepared 
without  running  off  the  mixture.  Allow  the  cloth 
to  drain  8  or  10  hours.  It  need  not  be  rinsed  from 
this  preparation.  Empty  the  kettle,  boil  up  9  lbs. 
good  logwood,  and  2  lbs.  Sicily  sumach;  enter  the 
goods,  boil  one  hour,  take  out,  and  cleanse  the  cloth 
with  fuller's  earth  and  soap  in  the  fulling  stocks. 


To  Dye  Lac  "Scarlet  on  Flannel  or  Milled  Cloth. 
An  excellent  tin  liquor  for  50  lbs.  lac  scarlet.  Take 
6  1-2  lbs.  muriatic  acid  and  1  1-2  lbs.  sulphuric 
acid  ;  put  them  into  a  stone  pot ;  feed  it  slowly  with 
20  oz.  of  grain  tin.  It  will  be  fit  for  use  next  day. 
Have  your  flannel  or  cloth  perfectly  clean.  It  ought 
to  be  dyed  in  a  pewter  or  block  tin  kettle.  Fill  the 
vessel  nearly  full ;  pulverize  6  lbs.  good  Lac  dye  ; 
put  it  in  the  kettle ;  also,  2  lbs.  cream  of  tartar,  and 
2  lbs  red  tartar  pulverized.  Allow  the  drugs  to  boil 
15  minutes;  then  cool  the  liquor,  and  put  in  the  tin 
liquor  and  about  2  oz.  tumerick.  Enter  the  cloth, 
and  continue  the  process  one  hour,  if  flannel ;  if  ful- 
led cloth,  continue  boiling  about  90  minutes.  Cool 
the  kettle,  take  out  the  goods,  throw  it  into  cold 
water ;  rinse  very  well  in  that.  If  the  cloth  gets 
properly  managed,  it  ought  to  be  afterwards  cleans- 


JSIolony  on  Dyeing.  13 

ed  with  fuller's  earth  in  a  fulling  mill,  which  would 
impart  much  beauty  to  the  cloth.  Six  or  seven 
times  the  above  quantity,  or  six  or  seven  times  any 
given  quantity,  may  be  dyed  in  the  same  kettle,  by 
diminishing  the  acids  about  one-sixth  every  kettle 
full.  For  instance,  if  the  kettle  is  large  enough  to 
contain  150  lbs.  of  goods,  7  quantities  may  be  done 
in  the  same  liquor,  at  the  above  proportions. 


Method  of  Dyeing  Black  Wool.  100  Ihs.  Wool 
When  the  wool  is  well  scoured,  get  on  a  conven- 
ient sized  kettle  ;  bring  it  to  boil;  put  20  lbs.  ground 
logwood  and  3  lbs.  sumach  in  a  large  cloth,  or  very 
coarse  bag;  boil  it 20  minutes  ;  enter  the  wool,  ob- 
serving to  stop  the  boiling  previously  ;  handle  it 
briskly  with  a  very  strong  pole.  Commence  boiling  ; 
continue  for  3  hours.  Dissolve  7  lbs.  copperas,  and 
cool  the  dye  kettle  very  cool :  if  too  full  to  admit 
of  much  cold  water,  run  off  some  of  the  liquor. — 
Put  in  a  little  of  the  copperas  ;  turn  the  wool  re- 
markably well.  After  an  interval,  put  in  some  more 
of  the  dissolved  copperas,  and  turn  the  wool.  In  10 
minutes  after,  put  in  the  remainder  of  the  copperas  ; 
commence  boiling,  and  continue  one  hour.  Draw, 
or  take  out  the  fire,  allowing  the  wool  to  remain  in 
the  kettle  (if  it  should  be  in  the  evening,)  till  next 
morning.  Run  off  the  kettle,  and  rinse  the  colour 
well  in  cold  water,  and  dry  in  the  atmosphere  if  the 
weather  will  permit.     Much  sulphate  of  iron  has  a 

2 


14  Molony  on  Dyeing. 

tendency  to  enfeeble  the  staple  of  the  wool,  and  if 
dyed  in  a  very  warm  dye-house,  I  think  it  makes  it 
still  more  tender.  In  consequence  of  the  same,  I 
advise  all  dyers  to  use  as  little  copperas  on  any  de- 
scription of  wool  or  woollen  goods,  as  will  just  an- 
swer their  purpose.  I  presume  all  dyers  of  skill  are 
as  well  aware  of  the  injury  as  I  am. 


Another  method  of  Scouring  Wool. 
Boil  up  60  lbs.  of  good  American  potash  in  a  con- 
venient sized  kettle  ;  allow  it  to  cool.  Then  take  2 
qts.  olive  oil,  12  qts.  sulphuric  acid ;  stir  it  well  to- 
gether. Then  put  in  4  or  5  qts.  of  warm  water, 
slowly.  Mix  it  well  together  ;  then  put  slowly  into 
it  the  dissolved  potash  ;  likewise  put  in  about  7  lbs. 
muriate  of  soda,  table  salt,  and  stir  well  for  10  or  15 
minutes.     Next  day  it  will  be  fit  for  use. 


Method  of  Scouring  on  the  above  principle^ 
A  kettle  containing  from  40  to  50  gals,  is  a  very 
convenient  size.  Heat  to  140  deg. ;  put  in  about  a 
qt.  of  soft  soap,  and  about  a  pint  of  the  above  oil 
soap ;  put  in  about  12  or  14  lbs.  wool ;  stir  it  with  a 
stick,  so  as  not  to  reverse  it,  about  3  minutes ;  put  it 
into  a  small  basket  to  drain  for  a  few  minutes  ;  then 
put  it  in  the  rinsing  box,  and  rinse  it  remarkably 
well.  It  is  not  necessary  to  use  much  soap  on  this 
principle.     You  may  scour  1000  lbs.  of  wool  with 


Molony  on  Dyeing,  15 

safety,  without  emptying  the  scouring  kettle.  If  the 
surface  of  the  scouring  lather  is  frothy,  like  a  soap 
lather,  it  may  be  depended  upon  to  answer  the  pur- 
pose intended.  I  have  scoured  considerable  quan- 
tities of  American  and  other  wool  on  this  principle, 
with  as  much  success  as  on  any  other  method  I  have 
ever  seen  adopted.  The  urool,  when  carefully  man- 
aged according  to  these  directions,  will  be  quite 
light  and  in  good  condition.  Some  manufacturers, 
perhaps,  might  be  prejudiced  against  this  method  of 
cleansing  wool,  owing  to  the  caustic  nature  of  the 
potash ;  its  burning  nature  is  greatly  counteracted 
by  the  sulphuric  acid,  and  the  opposition  of  the  olive 
oil  and  muriate  of  soda.  The  combination  and  op- 
position of  these  mixtures  almost  neutralizes  the 
fixed  alkali.  Certain  it  is,  they  destroy  its  burning 
nature,  so  that  it  does  make  the  staple  of  the  wool 
tender,  which  is  bordering  on  being  rotten.  Potash 
without  any  opposition,  is  injurious  to  wool,  if  it  is 
not  used  very  sparingly. 


Situation  of  a  Blue  Dye- House, 
It  should  be  either  handsomely  flagged,  or  with  a 
boarded  floor.  The  vats  should  be  of  a  uniform 
height,  and  in  one  direct  line  at  each  side  of  the  dye- 
house.  It  is  very  necessary  to  have  good  windows, 
to  afford  as  much  light  as  possible,  as  much  depends 
on  having  a  clear  view  of  the  liquor  when  the  indigo 
is  coming  to  a  state  of  fermentation  ;  and  in  fact,  it 


16  Molony  on  Dyeing. 

is  necessary  at  all  times.  The  vats  should  be  from 
32  to  34  inches  higher  than  the  floor,  which  is  a  ve- 
ry convenient  height  for  wool  dyeing.  If  the  vats 
are  7  feet  deep,  the  fire  should  not  be  placed  within 
3  1-2  feet  of  the  bottom,  I  think  it  most  convenient 
to  have  the  vats  so  situated  as  to  have  the  fire  to 
each,  out  of  doors,  as  it  would  save  much  room  in  the 
dye-house,  and  promote  cleanliness. 

If  the  building  be  large  enough,  there  should  be 
at  least  3  feet  distance  between  each  vessel,  to  af- 
ford room  for  the  men  to  perform  their  work  conve- 
niently. Black  and  blue  may  be  dyed  with  safety 
in  the  same  room  ;  but  blues  and  colours  ought  not 
to  be  done  in  the  same  apartment ;  more  especially 
light  shades,  cannot  be  managed  with  safety,  as  the 
wool  will  be  constantly  liable  to  receive  spots. 


Situation  of  the  Colour  Dye-House. 
The  building  should  be  about  ten  yards  in  height, 
with  a  good  flagged  floor.  If  the  building  exceed 
60  feet  in  length,  and  four  or  five  kettles  are  plac- 
ed in  it,  there  should  be  one  ventillator  in  the 
centre,  and  one  at  each  end,  that  as  much  steam  as 
possible  may  pass  off,  for  the  convenience  of  the 
workmen  and  the  benefit  of  their  health.  A  wool 
kettle  should  be  superior  in  diameter  to  its  depth, 
and  as  wide  in  the  bottom  as  in  the  upper  pari,  with 
a  bulge  or  swell  about  halfway  between  the  top  and 
bottom.     A  vessel  containing  about  250  gallons,  is 


Molony  on  Dyeing.  17 

a  convenient  size  for  dyin§  100  lbs.  of  wool,  either 
coarse  or  fine.  It  should  have  a  strainer,  and  a  pipe 
attached  to  one  side  of  the  bottom,  to  let  off  the  dye- 
stuff,  when  spent  or  useless,  and  a  shore  to  take  it  off. 
There  should  be  3  feet  space  between  each  kettle, 
if  the  building  will  admit  of  it.  The  vessels  should 
have  about  12  inches  of  flange,  with  a  little  descent 
inwards.  It  is  also  necessary  to  bear  the  pole  on  to 
turn  the  wool  when  colouring.  There  should  be  3 
windows  in  each  side  of  the  dye-house,  if  the  kettles 
are  placed  on  both  sides,  and  should  be  parallel, 
and  be  all  of  one  height  from  the  floor. 


On  Woad  Blue  Dyeing. 
A  vat  7  1-2  ft.  deep,  and  6  1-2  ft.  diameter,  was 
about  the  common  size  of  vats  when  I  left  England. 
Fill  the  vessel  within  16  inches  of  the  top  ;  heat  it  to 
I  50  deg.  Fahrenheit.  Take  700  lbs.  good  couched 
Woad  ;  put  it  into  three  or  four  large  tubs,  and  pour 
on  some  hot  water  to  soften  it.  Then  chop  it  quite 
fine  with  a  spade,  and  divide  10  lbs.  of  humbro,  or 
good  common  madder,  and  two  pecks  of  bran,  in  the 
tubs  containing  the  Woad.  I  think  it  ncessary  to 
put  three  or  four  pails  of  stale  urine  into  a  new  vat, 
to  excite  a  bolder  fermentation,  and  also  a  quicker 
one  ;  but  I  do  not  approve  of  the  urine  after  the  first 
heating.  Have  30  lbs.  good  Bengal  indigo  well 
ground  in  water.  Put  all  these  drugs  into  the  vat, 
and  rake  up  well ;  cover  the  vat  closely,  and  look  at 

2* 


18  JMolony  on  Dyeing. 

it  in  seven  or  eight  hours ;  agitate  the  liquor  with  a 
stick,  and  if  the  indigo  is  coming  to  a  state  of  fer- 
mentation, it  will  hold  a  feeble  bead  on  the  surface. 
Cover  the  vat  again,  and  agitate  in  two  hours  after. 
If  the  bead  hold  on  pretty  strongly,  it  is  a  demon- 
stration that  the  indigo  is  coming  to  a  state  of  so- 
lution. If  it  be  in  a  middling  state  of  fermentation, 
there  will  be  a  strong  bead  on  the  surface.  Put  in 
a  little  white  wool,  and  let  it  remain  ten  or  fifteen 
minutes  ;  then  take  it  out  and  squeeze  it.  Put  it  to 
cool.  It  ought  to  look  green  when  first  taken  out, 
and  change  to  a  blue  in  four  or  five  minutes.  If 
that  should  be  the  case,  rake  up  the  vat  well,  and 
put  in  three  quarts  of  quick  lime,  newly  slacked. — 
Look  at  the  vat  in  three  hours  after,  and  rake  up 
well.  If  the  liquor  looks  much  clearer,  or  of  a  light- 
er green,  it  is  a  proof  that  it  did  not  get  the  lime  too 
soon.  If  so,  put  in  three  qts.  more.  Rake  again  in 
two  hours,  and,  if  the  vat  is  any  clearer,  use  four  qts. 
more  lime.  Rake  again  in  tv/o  hours,  but  do  not 
use  any  lime.  If  the  liquor  is  any  clearer  in  2  hours 
after  the  last  raking,  put  in  8  qts.  more  lime. — 
Rake  again  in  two  hours,  without  lime.  Rake  in 
three  hours  after.  If  the  vat  come  on  well,  it  will 
show  a  copper-like  appearance  on  the  surface.  Use, 
in  that  case,  about  4  qls.  of  lime. 

Next  heat  the  vat  to  150  deg.  Fahrenheit,  and  put 
in  2  lbs.  madder,  and  2  or  3  lbs.  bran.  Rake  up 
well  and  cover  the  vat,  and  allow  it  to  settle  1 2  hrs. 
If  it  assume  a  greenish  yellow,  put  in  about  100  lbs. 


Molony  on  Dyeing.  19 

of  wool,  but  put  it  in  a  dye-net  previously.  Handle 
it  so  as  lo  reverse  it  in  the  vat.  Turn  it  every  five 
minutes  for  one  hour.  Wring  it  out  of  the  vat,  and 
shake  it  up  well  to  cool.  If  the  green  continue 
more  than  five  minutes  when  exposed  to  the  atmos- 
pheric air,  it  is  an  indication  of  the  want  of  more 
lime.  In  that  case,  add  2  qts.  lime  ;  rake  up  and 
allow  it  to  settle  three  hours.  Then  put  in  the  dye- 
net  and  wool.  Turn  it  with  a  large  dye-stick  every 
five  minutes  for  one  hour.  Then  wring  out  and 
shake  it  up  well.  Rake  up  the  vat  completely  from 
the  bottom,  and  allow  it  settle  three  hours.  If  the 
colour  is  not  deep  enough,  put  in  the  dye-net  and 
wool,  and  handle  it  until  full  enough.  Then  take 
out  the  wool  and  rinse  it  in  the  washing  basket. — 
Heat  up  the  vat  to  150  deg.  as  usual,  and  put  in  as 
much  indigo,  well  ground  in  water,  as  will  be  suf- 
ficient for  ttie  next  day's  colouring.  If  the  vat  has 
an  over  charge  of  alkali,  put  in  half  a  pail  of  wheat 
bran,  and  three  or  four  pounds  of  good  common 
madder,  to  destroy  some  of  the  caustic  of  the  lime, 
and  to  excite  fermentation.  If  the  vat  smell  strong- 
ly of  lime,  it  is  proof  of  having  in  it  too  much  alkali. 
If  lime  can  be  smelled  at  all,  there  is  no  lack  of  al- 
kali ;  but  if  short,  the  smell  will  not  be  perceived  in 
the  least.  A  smell  of  sourness  indicates  a  lack  of 
alkaU.  If  that  be  the  case,  put  in  about  2  qts.  quick 
lime,  with  the  indigo  and  madder,  at  the  abovemen- 
tioned  heat,  (150  deg.  which  I  approve  as  standard 
heat.)     When  the  indigo,  madder  and  lime   (ifne- 


20  Molony  on  Dyeing. 

cessary)  are  in  the  vat,  rake  up  well  and  allow  it  to 
settle  12  hours.  Then  if  the  vat  looks  clear,  or  of  a 
greenish  yellow,  put  in  the  dye-net  and  the  wool ; 
turn  it  as  usual.  Wring  it  out  in  one  hour,  and 
shake  it  up  well  to  cool.  Rake  the  vat,  that  the  li- 
quor may  be  thoroughly  mixed ;  allow  it  to  settle 
three  hours;  then  put  in  the  dye-net  and  wool; 
handle  it  one  hour,  as  usual.  Wring  the  wool,  and 
shake  it  well  to  cool  off  the  green  ;  rake  the  vat,  and 
allow  it  three  hours  to  settle  ;  then  put  in  the  dye- 
net  and  wool,  and  handle  it  one  hour,  or  according 
to  the  shade. 

Some  dyers  keep  the  vat  at  such  a  strength  that 
the  wool  may  be  dyed  deep  blue  by  putting  it  only 
tivice  in  the  dye,  which  I  do  not  disapprove,  as  it 
expedites  business.  In  that  case,  I  would  enter  the 
wool  but  twice  each  day. 

Another  method  of  knowing  the  condition  of  the 
vats: — If  onlyihe  necessary  quantity  of  lime  be  put 
in,  the  wool  will  be  bright  and  even;  if  it  have  an 
exoess  of  lime,  the  green  wool  will  change  to  blue 
in  about  two  minutes,  when  exposed  to  the  atmos- 
phere. In  that  case,  it  will  be  evenly  coloured,  and 
will  assume  a  gray  appearance,  even  if  the  blue  be 
very  deep  or  full.  If  any  vat  is  too  much  in  want  of 
lime,  the  blue  dyed  in  it  will  be  dull,  and  of  a  green- 
ish appearance,  even  when  deep  enough  in  colour. — 
I  do  not  think  it  wise  to  dye  more  than  three  or  four 
tons  of  clean  wool  in  any  vat  of  the  size  above-men- 
tioned.    Then  empty  the  contents,  and  proceed  ac- 


Molony  on  Dyeing.  21 

cording  to  the  same  method  as  before  described.  By 
so  doing,  I  think  the  work  will  be  done  to  better  ad- 
vantage, and  the  vats  will  be  more  easily  kept  in  good 
working  order.  If  worked  more  than  70  or  SO  day?, 
the  dyer  ought  to  be  possessed  of  very  superior  skill, 
though  I  have  seen  good  blues  dyed  in  vats  that 
were  worked  from  6  to  9  months.  If  a  vat  is  very 
much  overcharged  with  lime,  I  know  of  no  better 
way  than  to  boil  a  bushel  of  wheat  bran,  and  7  or  8 
lbs.  good  common  madder,  and  3  or  4  lbs.  pearlash, 
and  strain  off  the  clear  liquor,  and  put  it  in  tlie  vat, 
to  counteract  the  surplus  of  lime. 


Royal  Adalaide.  100  Ihs,  Wool 
The  vat  for  blueing  this  colour,  should  be  in  good 
condition,  but  weak  of  indigo,  and  should  not  exceed 
120  deg,  of  heat.  The  wool  should  be  well  shaken, 
and  not  matted  in  the  least,  as  it  is  very  important  to 
have  it  dyed  even  in  the  first  process.  Put  in  the 
dye-net,  and  then  the  wool,  and  turn  it  very  atten- 
tively with  a  dye-stick  for  fifteen  or  twenty  minutes, 
according  to  the  strength  of  the  liquor ;  then  wring 
it,  and  shake  it  up  well  to  cool  off  the  green  ;  rake 
up  well,  and  allow  it  three  hours  to  settle.  Then 
put  in  the  net  and  the  wool,  and  handle  it  till  deep 
enough,  which  should  not  exceed  half  the  depth  of 
colour  of  deep  blue  wool.  The  vats  should  be  of 
such  a  strength  as  to  admit  the  woors  being  dipped 
twice  ;  then  rinse  particularly   well  in  the  washing 


^2  Molony  on  Dyeing. 

basket ;  then  take  a  kettle  of  convenient  size,  and 
fill  it  with  clean  soft  water;  get  up  a  brisk  fire,  and 
make  it  boil.  Put  in  about  8  lbs.  barwood,  and  boil 
it  30  minutes;  then  cool  the  liquor  with  water,  rake 
it  up  well,  and  put  in  the  wool ;  turn  it  briskly  in  the 
kettle  for  ten  minutes,  get  on  a  strong  fire,  and  com- 
mence boiling,  and  continue  to  boil  ninety  minutes, 
observing  to  turn  the  wool  every  fifteen  minutes. — 
Take  out  the  wool,  and  put  into  the  kettle  2  lbs: 
ground  cochineal,  3  lbs.  allum,  about  2  lbs.  cream  of 
tartar,  and  4  oz.  tartaric  acid  ;  boil  all  together  fif- 
teen minutes  ;  then  cool  with  a  few  pails  of  water, 
rake  up  well,  and  put  in  the  wool ;  turn  it  for  fifteen 
minutes.  Then  get  on  a  brisk  fire,  and  continue 
boiling  90  minutes  ;  observing  to  turn  the  wool  every 
10  minutes.  Cool  the  liquor,  and  take  out  the  wool, 
and  rinse  it  well  in  the  rinsing  basket,  and  dry  the 
most  convenient  way. 


Permmient  Lavender.  100  lbs.  Wool. 
The  vats  should  not  exceed  110  degrees  of  heat, 
for  this  colour.  Let  the  wool  be  well  shaken ;  put 
in  the  dye-net,  then  the  wool,  and  turn  it  diligently 
until  deep  enough  of  the  blue,  wring  out  and  cool 
oflfthe  green;  then  rinse  well  in  the  rinsing  box. — 
Get  a  suitable  kettle  of  clean  soft  water,  and  make 
it  boil ;  then  put  in  24  oz.  good  cochineal,  ground  in 
a  mill  similar  to  a  coffee-mill ;  also,  8  oz.  pulverized 
Aleppo  gall  nuts,  2  lbs.  allum,  2  lbs.  cream  of  tartar 


Molojiy  on  Dyeing.  23 

and  4  oz.  tartaric  acid  pulverized.  Allow  these 
drugs  to  boil  20  minutes,  then  run  in  some  cold  wa- 
ter, rake  up  well,  put  in  the  light  blue  wool,  and  turn 
it  diligently  for  15  minutes.  Then  get  on  a  brisk 
fire,  and  commence  boiling,  and  continue  the  pro- 
cess 90  minutes,  observing  to  turn  the  wool  every 
15  minutes  during  the  process.  Run  in  some  cold 
water,  and  draw  out  the  fire.  Then  take  out  the 
wool,  cool  it,  and  rinse  it  well  in  the  rinsing  box  ; 
allow  it  to  drain  12  hours,  and  dry  in  the  open  air 
if  the  weather  will  permit ;  if  not,  dry  in  a  warm 
room. 


Another  Lavender.  100  lbs.  Wool. 
Take  a  kettle  of  clean  soft  water,  and  make  it  boil ; 
then  take  12  or  14  oz.  good  cudbierd,  and  put  it  in- 
to a  tub.  Put  in  merely  as  much  water  as  will  wet 
it,  and  stir  it  until  completely  wet ;  then  run  in  some 
cold  water  to  stop  the  boiling ;  put  in  the  cudbierd 
and  1  lb.  cream  of  tartar  ;  rake  up  well,  and  put  in 
in  the  wool.  Turn  it  well  with  a  long  pole  ;  keep 
the  kettle  to  200  deg.  of  heat.  If  the  dye  boils,  it  is 
most  likely  to  boil  over,  and  cause  waste,  as  cudbierd 
is  of  that  nature,  that  if  it  simmer  it  generally  boils 
over.  Continue  the  process  90  minutes.  Cool  the 
kettle  with  water,  take  out  the  wool,  and  wash  it  in 
the  rinsing  box,  to  take  off  the  loose  dye-stuffs. — 
When  it  is  well  drained,  put  it  in  the  nets  in  the 
blue  vats,  and  turn  it  diligently  until  deep  enough 


24  Molony  on  Dyeing, 

in  colour,  then  wring  it  and  rinse  it  well.  If  not  red 
enough,  heat  the  old  cudbierd  liquor  to  200  deg.  and 
return  the  wool  to  it,  turn  it  occasionally  until  red 
enough.  If  necessary,  a  little  more  cudbierd  may 
be  added  to  the  liquor,  but  observe  to  take  out  the 
wool  when  red  enough,  or  the  right  shade  obtained. 
Rinse  and  dry  in  a  room,  as  the  sun  injures  this  col- 
our materially. 

The  vats  in  which  this  colour  is  blued,  should  be 
rery  weak  of  Indigo,  and  ought  to  be  raked  6  hours 
previous  to  dipping  the  wool.  This  is  a  fugitive  col- 
our, but  will  answer  for  coarse  cloths  and  satinets. — 
To  add  much  to  the  durability  of  this  colour,  get  a 
kettle  of  clean,  soft,  cold  water,  and  put  in  about  I 
pint  sulphuric  acid,  and  stir  it  well ;  then  put  in  half 
the  wool,  and  turn  it  for  about  10  minutes  ;  take  out 
and  rinse  well,  and  put  it  to  drain  ;  add  to  the  above 
another  half  pint  sulphuric  acid  ;  put  in  the  remain- 
der, and  turn  it  well  for  10  minutes.  Take  it  out 
and  rinse  well  in  cold  water.  I  am  well  aware  that 
strong  acids  are  injurious  to  wool,  bat  I  have  proved 
by  long  experience  that  when  used  cold  they  do  not 
injure  it  in  the  least;  and  the  wool  may  be  dryed  in 
the  hottest  sun,  and  not  fade  one  shade. 


A  Dyer's  Post 
Is  made  of  deal  or  pine.     It  ought  to  be  10  feet  in 
length,  and  the  upper  parts  at  least  12  to  14  inches 
square.     The  heaviest  end  of  the  tree  should  be  sunk 


Molony  on  Dyeing,  S5 

4  1-2  feet  in  the  ground.  The  part  above  ground 
should  be  smoothly  planed  and  square.  There  ought 
to  be  four  arms  of  lignum  vitae  inserted  in  the  post, 
and  placed  about  three  feet  above  the  floor.  The 
arms  should  be  of  a  flatfish  round,  and  tapering  from 
the  post  to  the  extremity  ;  and  particularly  smooth, 
if  skein  silk  is  to  be  wrung  on  them.  Four  men  can 
wring  at  the  same  time.  The  wringing  sticks  should 
be  about  twenty-seven  inches  long. 


Golden  Olive.  100  Ihs.  Wool, 
Take  a  kettle  of  clean  soft  water,  and  make  it 
boil ;  put  in  50  lbs.  ground  fustic,  5  lbs,  pulverized 
red  tartar,  (put  the  fustic  into  three  large  bags,)  5 
lbs.  good  common  madder ;  allow  these  drugs  to  boil 
20  mitutes,  then  run  in  some  cold  water  to  cool  down. 
Rake  up  well  and  put  in  the  wool,  turn  it  with  a  long 
pole  attentively  for  20  minutes ;  then  get  on  a  brisk 
fire  and  commence  boiling ;  turn  it  every  16  minutes 
and  continue  the  process  3  hours,  observing  to  keep 
it  boiling  all  the  while.  Then  put  in  some  cold  wa- 
ter ;  take  out  the  wool.  Dissolve  1  lb.  copperas, 
and  4  oz.  sulphate  of  copper  in  boiling  water;  take 
out  some  liquor  and  cool  it  with  water  to  100  deg. ; 
put  in  the  copperas  and  sulphate  of  copper;  rake  up 
well,  put  in  the  wool,  and  turn  it  very  attentively  for 
20  minutes  ;  then  get  on  some  fire,  and  heat  to  170 
deg.,  observing  to  turn  the  wool  every  15  minutes. 
When  the  kettle  is  at  170  deg.  draw  the  fire  and  run 

3 


26  Molony  on  Dyeing. 

in  some  water,  turning  the  wool  completely  from  the 
bottom,  that  it  may  all  receive  an  equal  degree  of 
heat ;  allow  it  to  remain  in  the  kettle  till  next  day, 
then  run  off  the  liquor,  and  take  out  the  wool  and 
rinse  it  well  in  the  wool-washing  basket ;  dry  in  the 
open  air,  if  the  weather  will  permit. 

The  quantity  of  dye-stuff  I  have  mentioned,  will 
produce  a  handsome  Golden  Olive,  if  the  drugs  are 
of  good  quality;  if  not,  more  of  each  sort  may  be 
added.  When  the  first  kettle  full  is  dyed,  the  work- 
man will,  of  course,  add  or  diminish  the  quantity  of 
drugs,  according  to  the  shade.  Dye  drugs  frequent- 
ly differ  from  20  to  50  per  centum,  and  more  dye 
strength  of  dye  is  required  for  very  fine  wool,  than  to 
produce  the  same  shade  in  coarse.  By  using  16  oz. 
Aleppo  gall  nuts,  and  8  oz.  Sicily  sumach,  instead  of 
the  logwood,  with  the  other  drugs,  the  colour  will 
be  more  permanent,  and  stand  the  process  of  steam- 
ing better. 


Permanent  Slate  Colour.  100  lbs.  Wool. 
Have  a  woad  vat  at  110  or  115  deg.  of  heat;  it 
should  be  very  weak  of  indigo,  and  raked  up  6  hours 
previously.  Put  in  the  dye-net,  then  the  wool,  and 
keep  in  the  wool  until  it  shows  an  appearance  of 
weak  green ;  then  wring  it  out,  and  shake  it  up  well 
to  cool ;  rinse  well  in  the  rinsing  box ;  get  a  suita- 
ble kettle  of  clean  soft  water  to  boil,  and  put  in  4  oz. 
Aleppo  gall  nuts  pulverized  ;  also,  6  oz.  barwood  and 


Molony  on  Dyeing.  27 

2  lbs.  pulverized  red  tartar.  Allow  these  drugs  to 
boil  20  minutes  ;  then  run  in  some  cold  water  to  cool 
to  JTOdeg.  Rake  up  well,  and  put  in  the  wool* 
handling  it  carefully  with  a  long  pole  for  20  minutes. 
Then  get  on  a  brisk  fire  and  boil  three  hours,  o  - 
serving  to  turn  the  wool  every  15  minutes;  run  in 
some  cold  water,  and  take  out  the  wool.  Dissolve 
IG  oz.  sulphate  of  copper,  and  8  oz.  sulphate  of  iron; 
put  some  water  in  the  kettle,  rake  up,  put  in  the 
wool  and  turn  it  for  ten  or  fifteen  minutes  ;  get  on 
some  fire,  and  turn  the  wool  every  ten  minutes,  and 
boil  it  one  hour;  draw  the  fire,  and  let  it  remain  all 
night.  Then  take  it  and  rinse  well,  and  dry  in  the 
open  air,  if  the  weather  will  permit;  if  not,  put  it  in 
a  warm  room. 


Permanent  Slate.  Another  Method,  100  lbs.  Wool. 
Take  a  suitable  kettle  of  clean  soft  water,  and 
make  it  boil ;  put  in  2  lbs.  pulverized  Aleppo  galls, 
and  2  lbs.  pulverized  red  tartar.  If  this  Slate  is 
wanted  to  assume  a  slight  shade  of  purple,  put  in  8  or 
10  oz.  barwood,  and  boil  all  together  twenty  minutes ; 
cool  to  170  deg.,  rake  up  well,  and  put  in  the  wool, 
turning  it  for  fifteen  minutes  ;  then  get  on  a  brisk 
fire,  and  commence  boiling,  turning  it  every  fifteen 
minutes,  and  continuing  the  process  three  hours  ; — 
then  turn  in  some  water,  and  take  out  the  wool. — 
Dissolve  1  lb.  copperas  and  1  lb.  sulphate  of  copper, 


2S  Molony  on  Dyeing, 

and  put  it  in  the  kettle ;  run  in  some  water,  rake  up 
well,  and  put  in  the  wool,  turning  it  for  fifteen  min- 
utes ;  then  get  on  a  brisk  fire,  and  commence  boil- 
ing ;  turn  the  wool  every  fifteen  minutes,  and  con- 
tinue the  process  ninety  minutes ;  let  it  remain  in 
the  kettle  till  next  morning.  Then  run  off  the 
dye-stuff  and  take  out  the  wool,  and  rinse  it  well  ; 
Dry  it  in  the  open  air,  if  the  weather  will  permit.  If 
the  Slate  is  wanted  to  appear  a  little  green,  instead 
of  purple,  omit  the  barwood,  and  use  about  6  oz. 
ground  fustic,  with  the  galls,  and  red  tartar. 


Permanent  Sage  Drab.  100  lbs.  Wool. 
This  colour  should  be  dyed  a  very  pale  azure  blue, 
in  a  weak  woad  vat ;  then  rinsed  well  in  the  wool- 
washing  basket.  Then  get  on  a  kettle  of  clean  soft 
water,  and  make  it  boil ;  put  in  10  lbs.  fustic  and  2 
lbs.  sulphate  of  copper  finely  powdered  ;  allow  these 
drugs  to  boil  twenty  minutes,  then  cool  to  170  deg., 
put  in  the  wool,  and  turn  it  attentively  fifteen  min- 
utes ;  then  get  on  a  brisk  fire  and  commence  boil- 
ing, turning  it  every  ten  or  fifteen  minutes  for  three 
hours.  Then  take  out  the  wool,  dissolve  8  oz.  sul- 
phate of  copper,  and  16  oz.  sulphate  of  iron;  put  it 
into  the  kettle ;  also,  some  cold  water  to  cool  it  to 
170  deg.  Rake  up  the  liquor,  and  enter  the  wool, 
turning  it  for  fifteen  minutes;  then  get  on  a  brisk 
fire,  and  boil,  turning  every  fifteen  minutes,  and  con- 


Molony  on  Dyeing.  29 

tinue  the  process  one  hour  from  the  commencement 
of  boiling.  Then  take  out  the  fire,  and  run  in  some 
cold  water ;  allow  it  to  remain  in  the  kettle  all  night. 
Then  run  off  the  dye-stuff,  take  out  the  wool,  rinse 
It,  and  dry  it  in  the  open  air,  if  the  weather  will 
permit. 


Slate   Colour  for  Coarse   Cloth  Manufacturing. 
100  lbs.    Wool 

Get  a  kettle  of  clean  soft  water  to  boil,  and  put  in 
3  lbs.  ground  logwood  and  8  oz.  barwood ;  boil 
twenty  minutes,  then  cool  to  170  deg.,  rake  up  well, 
and  enter  the  wool,  turning  it  with  a  large  pole  for 
fifteen  minutes  ;  then  get  on  a  brisk  fire,  and  com- 
mence boiling,  turning  every  fifteen  minutes,  and 
continue  the  process  two  hours ;  then  put  in  some 
water,  and  take  out  the  wool.  Dissolve  16  oz.  cop- 
peras and  8  oz.  sulphate  of  copper,  rake  up  the  li- 
quor, and  enter  the  wool,  turning  it  for  fifteen  min- 
utes ;  then  get  on  a  brisk  fire,  turn  the  wool  every 
fifteen  minutes,  and  continue  the  process  one  hour 
after  the  boiling  commences  ;  then  takeout  the  fire, 
run  in  some  water,  and  allow  it  to  remain  in  the  ket- 
tle till  next  morning.  Then  run  off  the  dye-stuff, 
take  out  the  wool,  rinse  well,  and  dry  in  the  open 
air.  This  colour  is  not  permanent,  but  will  stand 
air  and  sun  nearly  as  well  as  a  logwood  black  which 
is  not  previously  dyed  blue. 

3* 


30  J\flolony  on  Dyeing. 

Citron  Green,     100  lbs.    Wool. 
For  this  colour,   have  the  woad  vats  at  liO  deg.  ; 
put  in  the  dye-net,  then  enter  the   wool,   turning  it 
diligently  for  about  ten  minutes.     The  vat  should  be 
very  weak  of  indigo,  and  the  colour  should  not  ex- 
ceed sky  blue.    When  wrung  out,  rinse  it  very  well 
in  cold  water  ;  get  on  a  suitable  kettle  of  clean  soft 
water,  and  make  it  boil ;  put  in  70  lbs.  ground  fus- 
tic and  2  lbs.  common  madder,  in  three  or  four  large 
bags  made  of  very  coarse  thin  cloth,  and  dissolve  24 
oz.   sulphate  of  copper  in  boiling  water,  and  enter 
this  with  the  fustic  into  the  kettle  ;  boil  these  drugs 
thirty  minutes,  run  in  some  cold  water  and  cool  to 
170  deg.  ;  put  in  the  wool,  and  turn  it  for  ten  or  fif- 
teen minutes;  then  get  on  a  brisk  fire,   and  com- 
mence boiling,   turning  the  wool  every  fifteen  min- 
utes, and  continue   the   process  three   hours:  if  not 
yellow  enough,  take  out  the  wool  and  boil  up  some 
more  fustic;  and  if  not  brown   enough,  use  a  little 
madder,  and  manage  as  above  mentioned,   until  full 
enough    of  colour.     Rinse  in   cold   water.     If  not 
green  enough,  boil  S  or  10  oz.  pulverized  nut  galls. 
It  will  substitute  for  three  or  four  shades  deficiency 
in  the  blue.     Any   shade  of  permanent,  full  green, 
may  be  dyed  on  this  method.     If  the  green  require 
much  darkening,  dissolve  (according  to  shade)  say 
5  or  6  lbs.  copperas.     Take  out  the  wool,  and  put  it 
in ;  enter  the  wool,  after  raking  well,  and  turn  it  till 
dark  enough ;  then  rinse  well,  and  dry  in  open  air. 


Molony  on  Dyeing.  31 

French  Plum  Colour  on  a  Red  Shade.  1 00  lbs.  Wool. 
Get  on  a  suitable  kettle  of  clean  boiling  water,  and 
put  in  loose  70  lbs.  barvvood,  3  lbs.  Aleppo  galls. 
piilverized  ;  let  it  boil  thirty  minutes  ;  then  cool  with 
water,  rake  up  well,  and  enter  the  wool  ;  turn  it  for 
fifteen  minutes,  get  on  a  brisk  fire,  and  commence 
boiling,  turn  the  wool  every  fifteen  minutes,  and  con- 
tinue the  process  three  hours ;  take  out  the  wool, 
and  dissolve  8  lbs.  alum  and  4  lbs.  cream  of  tartar, 
put  it  in  the  kettle,  rake  up  well,  enter  the  wool,  and 
turn  it  fitteen  minutes;  get  on  a  brisk  fire, and  com- 
mence boiling ;  continue  the  process  for  two  hours, 
observing  to  turn  every  fifteen  minutes ;  take  out 
and  rinse,  and  done. 


Weld  Yellow.  100  lbs.  Wool. 
Bo;!  a  kettle  of  clean  soft  water,  then  put  in  18  lbs. 
English  alum,  or  23 lbs.  American  do.,  boil  until  all 
is  dissolved ;  run  in  some  water,  rake  up  well,  then 
enter  'he  wool,  and  tL;r:i  it  for  fifteen  minutes, get  on 
a  brisk  fire,  and  boil  for  four  hours,  turning  every  fif- 
teen minutes;  run  oft^the  liquor,  take  out  the  wool, 
and  cleanse  the  kettle  well  by  scouring  with  wood 
ashes;  if  that  is  not  convenient,  cleanse  with  dis- 
solved pearlash,  used  with  a  coarse  cloth.  Rinse 
the  wool  particularly  well  in  the  rinsing  box,  get  60 
or  60  lbs.  good  Weld,  and  rinse  the  roots  in  cold 
water  to  cleanse  it  completely  from  the  clay  ;  then 
put  it  in  the  bottom  of  the  kettle,  and  press  it  down 


32  Molony  on  Dyeing. 

that  it  may  not  float  on  the  water.  You  may  use  a 
large  cross-barred  brass  or  copper  hoop.  Fill  up 
with  clean  soft  water ;  or,  which  I  think  a  little  bet- 
ter, put  the  Weld  loose  in  a  kettle  of  boiling  water, 
with  24  oz.  pparlash  to  extract  its  colouring  matter. 
Boil  it  thirty  minutes,  draw  the  fire,  and  strain  off 
this  liquid  into  another  kettle;  enter  the  wool,  get 
on  a  fire,  and  boil  ninety  minutes,  turning  every  ten 
minutes  during  the  process.  If  the  Weld  be  strong, 
the  above  quantity  will  dye  100  lbs.  wool  a  good 
yellow  :  if  not,  boil  up  some  more  weld  and  pearl- 
ash  in  the  same  proportions  given  abov^.  Take  out 
the  wool,  and  strain  the  boiled  weld  irto  the  wool 
kettle  ;  return  the  wool,  and  boil  till  full  enough  of 
colour  ;  take  out,  rinse,  and  dry  in  a  w^rm  room. — 
Done. 


Bark  Yellow,  100  Jhs.  Wool 
Take  20  lbs.  citron  bark,  put  it  into  a  kettle  of  soft 
water,  and  heat  to  200  deg.  ;  strain  off  the  clear  in- 
to another  kettle  ;  for  this  colour,  the  heat  should 
not  exceed  140  deg.  Put  in  2  qts.  tin  liquor,  (see 
page  )  6  lbs.  alum,  and  2  lbs,  cream  of  tartar, 
rake  up  well,  and  enter  the  wool,  handling  it  well 
fifteen  minutes;  commence  boiling,  and  continue 
one  hour;  then  pour  in  some  cold  water,  and  turn 
the  wool ;  then  run  off  the  dye-stuff,  take  out  the 
wool,  and  rinse  particularly  well;  make  a  soap  lath- 
er, tolerably  strong,  in  a  kettle  at  120  degrees,  enter 


Molony  on  Dyeing.  33 

the  wool  fur  twenty  minutes,  to  destroy  the  harshness 
of  the  tin  liquor  ;  rinse  well,  and  dry  in  the  open  air. 
Woven  goods,  or  worsted,  do  not  require  any  soap 
when  dyed  yellow. 


Method  of  setting  an  Ash  Blue  Vat,  for  Woollen  goocls. 
If  the  vat  is  7  feet  deep,  and  contains  1200  gal- 
lons, do  not  allow  the  fire  within  three  feet  of  the 
bottom.  To  set  it  strong,  heat  the  water  in  it  to  160 
deg.,  then  put  in  14  lbs.  good  Bengal  indigo,  well 
ground  in  water,  18  lbs.  potash,  12  lbs.  good  com- 
mon madder,  1  peck  of  wheat  bran,  and  3  pails  of 
old  urine,  and  rake  well.  It  should  look  green  in 
fourteen  or  sixteen  hours,  and  when  agitated  should 
hold  a  strong  bead  ;  it  should  be  of  a  clear  blue.  If 
it  be  so,  rake  up  well,  and  put  in  10  lbs.  more  potash, 
and  heat  to  only  150  deg. ;  put  in  4  lbs.  madder  and 
3  or  4  qts.  bran,  and  it  will  be  fit  for  colouring  blue 
next  morning.  If  the  blue  bead  does  not  appear  on 
the  surface,  when  agitated  in  fourteen  hours,  let  it 
rest  four  hours  more,  and  heat  to  150  deg;  put  in  7 
lbs.  madder,  and  1  peck  of  bran,  but  no  more  potash 
till  it  holds  a  blue  bead  when  agitated.  An  excess 
of  fixed  alkali — in  that  case,  when  the  vat  is  renova- 
ted with  indigo,  use  the  potash  in  rather  less  propor- 
tion than  in  making  a  new  vat ;  likewise,  some  of 
the  water  of  the  boiled  bran,  and  3  lbs.  madder  to 
destroy  part  of  the  caustic  nature  of  the  potash.  An 
ash  vat   in  good  order  will  settle  in  one  hour,  when 


34  Molony  on  Dyeing. 

raked.  I  approve  of  using  2  or  3  pails  of  urine  in 
setting  a  new  vat,  as  it  comes  on  rather  bolder  and 
will  spring  sooner.  Although  potash  and  urine  are^ 
both  alkalies,  the  urine  has  a  different  effect  in  many 
instances,  being  more  fixed  and  less  caustic  when  in 
a  working  state.  Blue,  dyed  in  an  ash  vat,  is  con- 
siderably more  fugitive  than  a  woad  blue,  though  1 
admit  that  an  ash  vat  in  good  order  will  dye  a  hand- 
some colour,  and  that  it  will  stand  the  operation  of 
manufacturing  nearly  as  v/ell.  I  advise  all  persons 
engaged  in  manufacturing  woollen  cloths,  to  prefer 
woad  blues,  for  various  reasons.  A  woad  vat  does 
not  enfeeble  the  staple  of  the  wool,  but  adds  to 
i;s  strength;  while  potash  has  a  tendency  to  injure 
it,  by  making  it  to  bristle, which  wiii  cause  much  waste 
in  all  the  different  operations  of  manufacturing. — 
Another  advantage — Woad  is  a  weak  indigo  plant, 
and  assists  indigo  so  that  it  will  produce  at  least  2 
lbs.  more  deep  blue  wool  than  can  be  done  in  each 
pound  of  indigo,  in  the  best  ash  vat ;  besides  the 
credit  of  its  durability  to  the  manufacturer  and  mer- 
chant. I  do  not  approve  of  working  a  woad  vat  more 
than  thffee  months,  without  emptying  the  liquor  and 
setting  it  anew.  Some  scientific  workmen  continue 
dyeing  more  than  a  year,  and  their  blues  are  equally 
permanent,  but  the  vats  do  not  work  so  pleasantly, 
or  yield  as  much  produce,  in  ray  opinion.  The  vats 
are  more  liable  to  get  out  of  order,  and  waste  time. 
Ai  excess  of  alkali  often  liappens  in  such  cases,  and 
t  ley  require  more  fermentation  than  vats  oftener  set. 


Molony  on  Dyeing.  35 

A  putrid  fermentation  is  also  more  likely  to  take 
place,  if  the  workman  be  not  possessed  of  more  than 
ordinary  skill.  I  advise  the  ash  blue  dyer  also,  not 
to  work  his  vats  more  than  three  months,  as  it  will 
be  a  disadvantage  to  him,  by  reason  of  excess  of  al- 
kali. Some  good  practical  dyers  may  reply  that  all 
the  potash  used  with  the  indigo  in  renovating,  will 
form  upon  the  wool,  and  leave  no  more  excess  of  al- 
kali, than  if  the  vats  were  set  anew  every  three 
months;  but  from  such,  I  differ  in  opinion.  If  the 
argument  vi^ere  true,  it  is  still  a  disadvantage.  I 
have  proved,  by  long  experience,  that  old  vats  re- 
quire an  extra  quantity  of  bean  and  madder,  which 
form  as  useful  a  fermentation  as  any  I  am  acquaint- 
ed with,  either  for  ash  or  woad  vats.  Some  consider 
it  necessary  to  use  a  few  lbs.  of  pearlash  in  woad  vats, 
to  excite  fermentation.  Of  this  I  do  not  disapprove, 
if  used  sparingly  and  not  too  frequently. 


Fai^t  Mulberry.  100  lbs.  Wool. 
This  colour  should  be  dyed  quite  a  pale  blue,  and 
then  rinsed  well  in  the  washing  basket  in  cold  water. 
Allow  it  to  drain  a  few  hours,  then  get  on  a  suitable 
kettle  of  boiling  w^ater,  and  put  in  20  or  25  lbs.  cam- 
wood, or  otherwise  35  lbs.  barwood  ;  allow  it  to  boil 
one  hour  ;  cool  the  liquor,  rake  up  well,  and  enter 
the  wool ;  handle  it  with  a  large  pole  about  fifteen 
minutes,  then  get  on  a  brisk  fire  and  commence  boil- 
ing, and  continue  the  process  three  hours  ;  run  in 


36  Molony  on  Dyeing. 

some  cold  water,  take  out  the  wool,  rinse  particular- 
ly well,  and  dry  the  most  convenient  way.  If  the 
colour  is  too  red,  dye  it  a  deeper  blue,  or  otherwise 
diminish  the  barwood.  Two  or-more  kettle  fulls  of 
wool  can  be  done  with  safety  in  the  same  liquor,  by 
using  less  barwood,  at  a  reduction  of  25  per  cent,  of 
its  proportions. 


Coffee  Brown,  100  lbs.  Wool, 
Boil  the  kettle,  take  40  lbs.  ground  fustic,  and  20 
lbs.  common  madder,  and  4  lbs.  red  tartar  pulverized, 
put  these  ingredients  in  two  large  bags  and  put  them 
in  the  kettle;  also  put  in  about  14  lbs.  barwood 
loose.  Allow  the  whole  to  boil  one  hour ;  run  in 
some  water,  rake  up  well  all  together,  enter  the  wool, 
and  turn  it  from  the  bottom  and  centre,  so  as  to  re- 
verse it  as  much  as  possible,  tvith  a  large  pole  ;  con- 
tinue twenty  minutes,  then  commence  boiling,  con- 
tinue about  three  hours,  turning  once  in  fifteen  min- 
utes. Cool  the  liquor ;  dissolve  about  5  or  6  lbs. 
copperas  in  boiling  water,  and  divide  it  into  three 
parts  ;  the  first  part  being  put  in,  the  kettle  should 
be  run  up  with  almost  half  cold  water,  the  wool  turn- 
ed ten  or  fifteen  minutes  ;  then  put  in  the  next  part, 
turn  as  before ;  then  put  in  the  last,  and  treat  in  the 
same  way.  Get  on  a  brisk  fire  and  commence  boil- 
ing, turn  the  wool  occasionally  until  it  is  tolerably 
even,  then  run  off  the  liquor,  take  out  the  wool,  rinse 
it  well,  and  dry  the  most  convenient  way.     Barwood 


Molony  on  Dyeing.  37 

will  not  yield  its  strength  by  boiling  in  bags,  which 
renders  it  necessary  to  put  it  in  loose.  Were  it  not 
so  troublesome  to  take  the  wool  out  of  the  kettle  to 
sadden  or  darken,  it  would  be  dyed  more  evenly,  and 
I  think  the  evenness  will  repay  for  the  extra  trouble 
in  taking  out.  Two  kettles  of  wool  can  be  dyed  in 
the  same  liquor  with  safety  ;  in  that  case,  the  wool 
must  be  taken  out,  as  it  will  not  answer  to  put 
either  fustic,  madder,  barwood,  or  camwood,  in  the 
liquor  that  copperas  is  previously  used  in. 


Light  Cinnamon.  100  lbs.  Wool, 
Put  30  lbs.  ground  fustic,  7  or  8  lbs.  common 
madder,  and  5  lbs.  red  tartar  pulverized,  into  large 
coarse  bags — also,  10  or  12  lbs.  barwood  loose  in 
the  kettle.  Allow  it  to  boil  thirty  minutes,  run  in 
some  cold  water,  and  enter  the  wool ;  turn  it  about 
fifteen  or  twenty  minutes  with  a  large  pole  ;  get  on 
the  fire,  commence  boiling,  turn  at  intervals,  and 
continue  the  process  three  hours.  Run  off  some  of 
the  liquor,  and  fill  up  with  cold  water  ;  take  out  the 
wool.  Dissolve  1  lb.  copperas,  and  put  it  in  the  ket- 
tle, which  ought  not  to  exceed  120  deg.  Rake  up 
well,  and  enter  the  wool,  turning  it  for  fifteen  or 
twenty  minutes  ;  then  get  on  a  brisk  fire,  bring  the 
liquor  to  190  deg.  and  continue  the  process  two 
hours ;  cool  the  kettle,  or  run  it  off;  take  out  and 
rinse,  and  dry  the  most  convenient  way.  If  a  deep- 
er colour  be  required,  use  more  camwood  or  bar- 

4 


38  Molony  on  Dyeing. 

wood,  likewise  more  madder.  The  madder  and  bar-" 
wood  will  cause  a  redder  shade,  and  a  little  copperas 
will  darken.  I  think  the  given  quantity  of  fustic 
sufficient  for  almost  any  shade  of  light  cinnamon,  if 
the  article  be  good  ;  if  not,  use  it  in  larger  quantity. 
Two  or  three  lots  of  wool  can  be  done,  if  necessary, 
by  taking  out  the  wool  previously  to  the  copperas' 
being  put  in,  and  observing  to  use  less  madder  and 
barwood  in  a  proportion  of  20  per  cent.  You  need 
not  diminish  the  quantity  of  fustic,  as  the  madder  and 
barwood  regulate  the  colour  more  than  the  fustic. — 
I  think  it  extravagant  to  use  a  fine  quality  of  mad- 
der with  any  brown  on  woollen  goods,  or  any  colour 
that  requires  boifing,  as  an  inferior  quality  does  as 
well. 


Another  Mulberry.  100  lbs.  Wooh 
Get  a  kettle  of  water  to  boil)  take  20  lbs.  ground 
logwood,  15  lbs.  ground  peachwood,  and  put  into 
two  large  bags ;  take  10  lbs.  cudbierd,  and  wet  in  a 
pail  of  water,  ivith  the  hands.  As  cudbierd  will  not 
wet  in  a  large  quantity  of  water,  use  just  as  much  as 
will  wet  it.  Put  7  lbs.  barwood  loose  into  the  ket- 
tle. Allow  the  logwood,  peachwood,  and  barwood 
to  boil  thirty  minutes,  then  put  in  the  cudbierd,  rake 
and  run  in  some  cold  water ;  enter  the  wool,  and 
turn  it  twenty  minutes  ;  commence  boiling,  and  con- 
tinue three  hours;  run  off  almost  half  the  liquor; 
dissolve  3  lbs.  copperas  in  hot  water,  mix  it  with  5 


Molony  on  Dyeing.  39 

or  6  gallons  of  cold  water  and  put  in  one-third  ;  turn 
fifteen  minutes,  then  put  in  some  more  copperas,  and 
continue  turning  fifteen  minutes  more  ;  then  put  in 
the  last  part,  and  turn  as  before.  Boil  and  continue 
boiling  two  hours,  so  that  it  may  be  even  in  colour 
cool  the  liquor,  take  out,  and  rinse  in  cold  vvater. 


Permanent  Green  Olive.  100  lbs.  Wool. 
Dye  the  wool  a  light  blue,  and  rinse  it  well  in  cold 
water.  The  vats  should  not  exceed  110  deg.  of  heat, 
and  ought  to  be  weak  of  indigo,  so  as  not  to  have 
the  colour  dyed  too  quick,  lest  it  be  uneven.  Then 
get  a  brisk  fire  to  the  kettle ;  take  30  lbs.  ground 
fustic  2  lbs.  Aleppo  galls,  pulverized,  and  4  lbs.  com- 
mon madder;  (the  madder  may  be  put  into  the  ket- 
tle loose,  but  the  other  drugs  should  be  put  into 
large  bags.)  Allow  all  to  boil  thirty  minutes,  run  in 
some  cold  water,  rake  up  well,  and  enter  the  wool ; 
turn  it  thirty  minutes,  then  commence  boiling,  and 
continue  the  process  three  hours ;  cool  the  liquor, 
and  take  out  the  wool.  If  it  is  considered  necessary 
to  darken,  dissolve  24  oz.  copperas  and  12  oz.  sul- 
phate of  copper  ;  the  liquor  should  be  cooled  to  120 
deg. ;  put  in  the  copperas,  &c. ;  rake  up  well,  and 
re-enter  the  wool,  turn  it  twenty  minutes,  then  com- 
mence boiling,  and  continue  the  process  two  hours ; 
cool  the  kettle,  take  out  the  wool,  rinse  it  in  the 
washing-box,  and  dry  in  the  most  convenient  way. 


40  Molony  on  Dyeing, 

If  this  colour  is  not  strong,  or  deep  enough,  use  more 
of  the  dye-drugs.  I  think  it  unnecessary  to  exceed 
as  light  a  blue  as  can  be  dyed  evenly.  If  too  brown, 
diminish  the  madder:  if  too  dark,  use  less  copperas 
and  blue  vitriol. 


Broivn  Olive,  100  lbs.  Wool 
Dye  it  as  pale  a  blue  as  to  have  it  tolerably  even, 
and  rinse  well  in  the  washing-box ;  get  a  suitable 
kettle  to  boil,  and  put  40  lbs.  ground  fustic  into  a 
large  bag ;  take  10  or  12  lbs.  common  madder,  made 
very  fine  by  pounding,  and  put  loose  into  the  kettle. 
Put  in  the  fustic,  and  allow  it  to  boil  thirty  minutes  ; 
run  in  some  cold  water,  rake  up  well,  enter  the  wool 
and  turn  it  twenty  minutes  ;  commence  boiling,  and 
continue  the  process  three  hours.  Run  off  some  of 
the  liquor,  and  fill  with  cold  water  ;  take  out  the 
wool ;  dissolve  3  lbs.  copperas  in  hot  water,  have  the 
liquor  at  about  150  deg.,  and  put  in  the  copperas  ; 
rake  up  well,  and  enter  the  wool,  turning  it  carefully 
ten  or  fifteen  minutes ;  get  on  a  fire,  and  turn  occa- 
sionally ;  commence  boiling,  and  turn  frequently  un- 
til dark  enough ;  then  draw  the  fire,  and  allow  it  to 
remain  till  next  day,  if  time  will  admit;  if  not,  rinse 
it  before  it  becomes  cold,  and  dry  the  most  conveni- 
ent way.  The  quantity  of  copperas  named  will  make 
it  very  dark;  and  the  workman  may  add  or  diminish, 
according  to  his  own  taste. 


Molony  on  Dyeing.  41 

Permanent  Invisible  Green.  100  lbs.  Wool. 
Dye  the  wool  deep  blue  in  the  woad  vats,  and  rinse 
well  in  the  rinsing  box  ;  get  on  a  kettle  of  conveni- 
ent size,  to  boil ;  put  10  or  12  lbs.  fustic  in  a  large 
coarse  bag,  and  allow  it  to  boil  twenty  minutes. — 
Cool  the  liquor  to  160  deg. ;  dissolve  24  oz.  sulphate 
of  copper,  and  put  it  in  the  kettle,  rake  up  well,  and 
enter  the  wool ;  turn  it  with  the  pole  ten  or  twelve 
minutes,  then  get  on  a  brisk  fire  and  commence  boil- 
ing ;  continue  the  process  two  hours ;  run  in  some 
cold  water,  take  out  the  wool,  rinse  well,  and  dry  the 
most  convenient  way. 


Another  Method  of  Dyeing  Invisible  Green. 
100  lbs.  Wool 
Get  on  a  suitable  kettle,  and  boil ;  put  in  15  lbs. 
English,  or  18  lbs.  American  alum,  3  lbs.  red  tartar, 
and  4  lbs.  copperas;  cool  the  kettle  to  160  deg.  ; — 
enter  the  wool,  turn  briskly  for  ten  or  fifteen  minutes^ 
and  commence  boiling  ;  boil  three  hours,  then  cool, 
take  out  the  wool,  and  allow  it  to  remain  in  baskets 
till  next  day  ;  then  rinse  it  well  in  the  washing  box, 
and  put  it  to  drain.  Get  a  suitable  kettle  and  make 
it  boil ,  put  20  lbs.  ground  logwood,  and  6  lbs.  ground 
fustic  into  two  coarse  bags,  and  allow  it  to  boil  one 
hour ;  cool  the  liquor,  rake  up  well,  and  enter  the 
wool ;  turn  it  for  ten  or  fifteen  minutes,  then  get  on 
a  brisk  fire  and  commence  boiling  ;  turn  occasionally, 

4* 


42  Molony  on  Dyeing, 

continue  the  process  two  hours  ;  cool  the  liquor  by 
running  in  a  considerable  quantity  of  cold  water  ; — 
run  off  the  liquor,  take  out  the  wool,  rinse  well  in  the 
washing  box,  and  dry  the  most  convenient  way. 


^Method  of  Dyeing  Cloth  an  Invisible  Green.  100  lbs. 
In  case  of  not  having  a  woad  or  ash  vat,  boil  the 
cloth  in  water  one  hour  j  then  boil  12  lbs.  fustic  one 
hour;  put  in  about  4  qts.  sulphate  of  indigo,  and  9 
lbs.  alum;  cool  the  liquor  to  150  deg.  Rake  up 
well,  and  enter  the  cloth  ;  wynch  it  and  keep  it  well 
spread ;  get  on  a  brisk  fire,  commence  boiling  and 
wynching,  continue  the  process  ninety  minutes,  take 
out  the  cloth,  and  rinse  it  particularly  well.  Get  on 
a  convenient  kettle  with  clean  water  ;  put  about  10 
lbs.  good  ground  logwood  in  a  large  coarse  bag  ; — 
boil,  put  in  the  bag,  and  let  it  boil  thirty  minutes . 
cool  the  liquor,  enter  the  cloth,  turn  it  briskly,  and 
keep  it  spread  on  the  wynch  in  turning  ;  get  on  the 
iire,  commence  boiling  &  turning,  and  continue  the 
process  ninety  minutes  ;  cool  the  liquor,  and  take  out^ 
Dissolve  10  lbs.  copperas,  and  put  it  in  the  kettle ; 
rake  well,  and  enter  the  cloth  ;  get  on  the  fire,  and 
keep  turning  with  the  wynch  till  dark  enough.  If 
not  green  enough,  take  out  the  cloth,  and  boil  a  few 
lbs.  of  fustic  in  the  same  liquo  r,  enter  again  and  turn 
until  deep  enough  ;  wash  well,  and  tenter  the  cloth ; 
done. 


Molony  on  Dyeing,  43 

Method  of  setting  a  Hot  Vat,  for  Blue  Cotton  Dyeing. 
If  the  vat  is  heated  by  fire,  do  not  allow  it  within 
three  feet  of  the  bottom,  if  six  feet  deep,  and  contain 
800  gallons.  Get  it  to  170  deg.  Put  in  10  or  12 
gallons  of  old  urine,  10  lbs.  common  madder,  24  lbs. 
good  E.  India  indigo,  well  ground  in  water,  and  8  or 
10  lbs.  wheat  bran;  rake  up  well;  dissolve  40  lbs. 
good  potash  in  boiling  water,  and  put  into  the  vat ; 
cover  it  closely,  and  allow  it  to  settle  twelve  or  four- 
teen hours.  It  ought  to  be  sprung,  (as  termed  by 
dyers,)  or  assume  a  green  appearance.  If  not  sprung, 
boil  10  lbs.  bran  and  5  lbs.  common  madder,  and 
strain  off  the  clear  liquor  into  the  vat;  then  it  will 
soon  spring.  When  sprung,  let  it  remain  so  for  a 
few  hours  ;  then  heat  it  to  150  deg.  Next  morning 
it  will  be  fit  for  colouring  blue.  Run  five  pieces  cot- 
ton flannel  in  it ;  then  rake  up.  It  will  be  fit  to  work 
five  times  each  day,  allowing  ninety  minutes  to  set- 
tle every  raking.  If  it  turn  blackish  in  working,  it 
has  too  much  alkali.  Renovate  with  indigo,  and 
work  the  srme  liquor  for  ten  or  twelve  weeks.  If  it 
work  too  dark  when  renewing  with  indigo,  use  the 
potash  rather  under  the  above  proportions  to  the  in- 
digo; but  the  same  proportions  of  bran  and  madder. 
Do  not  put  in  the  sediment.  After  the  first  heating, 
if  it  looks  yellow,  use  more  potash  in  proportion. 


Myrtle   Green.     100  Ihs.  Wool. 
Dye  the  wool  a  light  blue,  or  rather  a  middling 


44  Molony  on  Dyeing. 

blue  ;  rinse  well  in  the  washing  box.  It  will  answer 
to  dye  this  blue  in  vats  at  a  regular  heat,  about  130 
deg.  Get  a  suitable  kettle  to  boil,  put  in  50  lbs. 
ground  fustic,  and  5  lbs.  ground  logwood  in  two 
large  bags ;  allow  it  to  boil  thirty  minutes,  cool  the 
liquor,  enter  the  wool,  and  turn  it  fifteen  minutes ; 
get  on  a  brisk  fire,  and  commence  boiling ;  turn,  at 
intervals,  and  continue  the  process  three  hours.  Cool 
the  kettle,  and  take  out  the  wool.  If  not  dark  enough 
put  in  1  lb.  dissolved  copperas,  1  lb.  sulphate  of  cop- 
per, and  cool  the  liquor  ;  rake  up  well,  re-enter  the 
wool,  and  turn  for  fifteen  minutes ;  get  on  a  brisk 
fire,  handle  it  at  intervals  until  it  is  moderately  even, 
and  deep  enough  ;  cool  the  liquor,  or  run  it  off;  take 
out  the  wool,  rinse  it  in  the  washing  box,  and  dry  the 
most  convenient  way. 


Damson  Brown.  100  Ihs.  Wool. 
Put  50  lbs.  barwood  loose  into  a  boiling  kettle' 
and  30  lbs.  ground  logwood  into  a  large  bag  ;  allow 
these  to  boil  one  hour ;  cool  the  liquor,  enter  the 
wool,  and  turn  it  for  fifteen  minutes  ;  get  on  a  brisk 
fire,  and  boil  three  hours,  turning  every  fifteen  min- 
utes. Cool  the  liquor  ;  dissolve  5  lbs.  copperas  in 
hot  water,  and  put  it  into  6  or  7  gallons  of  cold  wa- 
ter ;  put  in  about  one-third  part,  turn  well  for  fifteen 
minutes  ;  then  put  in  another  part,  and  turn  fifteen 
minutes  longer  ;  put  in  the  last  part  and  turn  fifteen 
minutes.     Get  on  a  brisk  fire,  and  boil  two  hours, 


Molony  on  Dyeing.  45 

turning  at  intervals  ;  cool  the  kettle,  run  off  the  li- 
quor, take  out  the  wool,  rinse  in  the  washing  basket, 
dry,  and  done.  If  not  blue  enough,  use  more  log- 
wood; if  not  dark  enough,  use  more  copperas. 


Fast  Purple  Mix,  100  Ihs.  Wool. 
Boil  a  kettle  containing  200  gallons;  take  3  \-i 
lbs.  English  alum,  or  4  lbs.  American  do,  3  1-2 
lbs.  cream  of  tartar,  and  4  oz.  tartaric  acid,  and  boil 
together;  cool  the  kettle,  rake  up  well,  enter  the 
wool,  and  turn  for  fifteen  minutes ;  then  boil  for  3 
hours  ;  cool,  take  out  the  wool,  and  allow  it  to  drain; 
then  put  2  lbs.  of  good,  well  pulverized  cochineal,  I 
lb.  of  alum,  and  1  lb.  carbonate  of  soda  into  the  sanle 
liquor ;  boil  twenty  minutes,  cool,  enter  the  wool, 
and  turn  it  fifteen  minutes  ;  boil,  and  continue  the 
process  three  hours.  Take  out  and  rinse  well,  and 
the  result  will  be  a  pink.  Mix  it  with  woad  blue,  and 
it  will  form  a  purple  mix,  that  will  stand  steaming. 
It  is  as  permanent  a  colour  as  any  that  can  be  dyed 
on  wool. 


Lilac,  or  Light  Purple.  100  Ihs.  Vv^ool. 
Get  on  a  suitable  kettle,  and  boil.  Put  30  lbs. 
good  cudbierd  into  a  tub,  and  wet  it  with  as  little 
water  as  possible,  with  a  whisk  or  your  hands ;  put 
it  into  the  kettle  ;  put  in  also  1  lb.  cream  of  tartar  ; 
cool  the  liquor,  and  enter  the  wool ;  bring  the  kettle 


46  JMolony  onJDyeing. 

as  nearly  as  possible  to  boiling,  and  continue  the 
process  two  hours.  Itwillyeild  its  strength  without 
boiling.  Cool.  Fill  a  large  kettle  with  cold  water, 
and  put  in  1  1-2  pints  of  oil  vitriol,  turn  the  wool  in 
it  carefully,  then  rinse  in  cold  water.  Bypassing  it 
through  the  acid,  it  will  resist  the  sun  four  or  five 
days,  if  it  should  be  necessary  t(5  keep  the  wool  vat 
so  long  from  showers. 

Green   Olive;    another  method.     100  Ihs,   IVool. 

Take  20  lbs.  ground  fustic,  5  lbs.  Sicily,  or  10  lbs. 
American  sumach,  and  10  lbs.  good  ground  logwood  ; 
put  these  into  three  large  coarse  bags ;  put  them  in- 
to the  kettle,  and  boil  thirty  minutes ;  run  in  some 
cold  water,  and  cool  to  IGOdeg.  E.ake  up  well,  en- 
ter the  wool,  and  turn  it  briskly  for  fifteen  minutes  ; 
then  get  on  a  brisk  fire,  and  boil  for  three  hours, 
handling  every  ten  minutes  ;  run  off  some  of  the  li- 
quor, and  run  in  some  cold  water  ;  take  out  the  woob 
and  dissolve  3  lbs.  sulphate  of  iron,  and  1  lb.  sul- 
phate of  copper  ;  cool  to  160  deg.  and  put  in  the 
last  named  ingredients ;  rake  up  well,  enter  the  woob 
handle  it  so  as  to  reverse  it  for  ten  or  fifteen  min- 
utes, then  get  on  a  brisk  fire,  and  boil  for  one  hour, 
liun  off  some  of  the  liquor,  fill  with  cold  w^ater,  turn 
the  wool  so  as  to  reverse  it  all,  and  let  it  remain  all 
night,  if  convenient.  Take  it  out  next  day,  wash 
and  dry  in  the  open  air,  if  the  weather  will  permit  ; 
if  not,  dry  in  a  warm  room.  This  is  not  a  very  per- 
manent colour,  but  will  answer   for  coarse   cloth. 


JMolomj  on  Dyeing.  47 

Sandij  Drab  100  lbs,  V/ool. 
Take  5  lbs.  ground  fustic,  1  lb.  common  madder, 
and  put  into  a  coarse  bag ;  put  1  lb.  camwood  and  1 
lb.  pulverized  red  tartar  loose  into  the  kettle ;  allow 
all  to  boil  one  hour ;  cool  to  160  deg.,  rake  up  well, 
turn  the  wool  in  the  kettle  ten  or  fifteen  minutes,  get 
on  a  brisk  fire,  and  boil  two  or  three  hours,  turning 
at  intervals,  otherwise  it  will  be  too  uneven ;  cool, 
and  take  out  the  wool.  Dissolve  12  oz.  sulphate  of 
iron,  and  put  into  the  kettle,  while  at  1 50  deg.  E,ake 
up  well,  and  enter  the  wool.  Put  in  the  damper, 
lest  the  colour  be  too  uneven.  Turn  for  ten  or  fif- 
teen minutes,  take  out  the  damper  and  get  on  the 
fire ;  turn  every  fifteen  minutes,  and  boil  one  hour  ; 
run  off  the  liquor,  take  out  the  wool,  and  rinse  before 
it  becomes  cold,  and  dry  the  most  convenient  way. 


Very  Light  Fawn.  100  lbs.  Wool. 
Take  2  lbs.  ground  fustic,  4  oz.  camwood,  2  oz. 
common  madder,  and  2  lbs.  pulverized  red  tartar, 
and  boil  them  thirty  minutes;  cool  to  140  deg. — 
Rake  up  well,  put  in  the  damper  to  stop  the  draft ; 
enter  the  wool,  and  turn  it  particularly  well  for  fif- 
teen minutes  ;  take  out  the  damper,  get  on  a  brisk 
fire,  and  boil  two  hours,  turning  as  often  as  once  in 
ten  minutes ;  run  in  some  cold  water,  and  take  out 
the  wool.  Dissolve  2  oz.  copperas,  and  4  oz.  pulver- 
ized red  tartar,  and  put  in  when  the  liquor  is  at  140 
deg.     Rake  up  well,  enter  the  wool,  turning  dili- 


48  JMolony  on  Dyeing. 

gently  fifteen  minutes;  take  out  the  damper,  and 
turn  ten  minutes,  till  the  heat  is  190  deg.  Then  run 
in  some  cold  water,  run  off  the  kettle,  take  out  the 
wool,  rinse  well,  and  dry  the  most  convenient  way. 
Many  dyers  may  think  it  too  much  trouble  to  take 
out  the  wool  to  sadden,  but  the  colour  will  be  so  much 
more  even,  as,  in  my  opinion,  to  satisfy  for  the  extra 
labor. 


Blue  Fawn.  100  Ihs.  Wool. 
Boil  4  lbs.  ground  fustic,  2  lbs.  camwood,  1  lb. 
pulverized  Aleppo  galls,  and  2  lbs.  pulv.  red  tartar  ; 
the  fustic  should  be  put  in  a  bag  ;  other  drugs  may 
be  loose  in  the  kettle;  boil  one  hour;  cool  to  160 
deg.  Rake  up  well,  put  in  the  damper,  enter  the 
wool,  and  turn  it  fifteen  minutes  ;  take  out  the  dam- 
per, get  on  a  brisk  fire,  and  commence  boiling ;  con- 
tinue to  boil,  turning  frequently  during  the  process, 
2  or  3  hours.  Runoff  some  of  the  dye,  fill  up  with 
cold  water,  and  take  out  the  wool.  Dissolve  12  oz. 
copperas,  &  4  oz.  pulv.  red  tartar ;  cool  to  150  deg. 
Rake  up  well,  enter  the  wool,  and  put  down  the 
damper ;  turn  for  fifteen  or  twenty  minutes,  take  out 
the  damper,  turn  at  intervals,  commence  boiling, 
and  continue  one  hour ;  run  off  some  of  the  dye- 
stuff,  and  put  in  some  cold  water  ;  take  out  the  wool 
and  rinse  in  the  rinsing  box.  and  dry  the  most  conve- 
nient way.  This  colour  will  be  more  even  by  rins- 
ing before  it  is  thoroughly  cold. 


Molony  on  Dyeing.  49 

Silver  Drab.     100  lbs.   Wool. 

Boil  a  kettle  of  convenient  size;  put  in  14  oz. 
ground  fustic,  4  oz.  madder,  1  lb.  cream  of  tartar, 
and  half  an  oz.  copperas;  boil  thirty  minutes,  rake 
up  well,  put  in  the  damper  to  stop  the  heat,  shake 
up  the  wool  particularly  well,  enter  it,  and  turn  care- 
fully for  twenty  minutes.  Take  out  the  damper,  get 
on  a  fire  briskly,  and  reverse  the  wool  every  five  min- 
utes ;  commence  boiling  and  turning,  and  continue 
the  process  two  hours.  Cool,  run  off  the  dye-stuff, 
take  out  the  wool,  and  wash  well  in  the  rinsing  box, 
and  dry  in  the  clear  atmosphere,  if  the  weather  will 
permit ;  if  not,  dry  it  cool  on  a  boarded  floor. 

This  colour  is  so  very  light,  that  it  is  seldom  used  ; 
however,  the  dyer  can  add  or  diminish.  Some  man- 
ufacturers frequently  use  it  to  mix  with  other  colours, 
in  preference  to  white  scoured  wool. 


Yellow  Drab.  100  lbs.  Wool. 
Put  into  a  boiling  kettle  of  convenient  size,  4  lbs. 
ground  fustic,  1  lb.  common  madder,  and  2  lbs.  pul- 
verized red  tartar;  (these  articles  may  be  put  into  a 
large  coarse  bag.)  Boil  thirty  minutes,  cool  to  150 
deg.,  rake  up  well,  and  enter  the  wool,  turning  it  with 
a  pole  about  twenty  minutes,  (having  the  damper  in 
all  this  time.)  Get  on  a  brisk  fire,  take  out  the  dam- 
per, reverse  the  wool  every  ten  minutes,  boil  three 
hours,  run  off  some  of  the  dye-stuff,  and  put  in  some 
cold  water ;  turn  the  wool,  and  take  it  out.     Dissolve 

5 


50  Molony  on  Dyeing* 

8  oz.  copperas  in  hot  water ;  cool  the  dye-stufF  to 
140  deg.  then  put  in  the  copperas.  Put  in  the  dam- 
per, rake  up  well,  and  enter  the  wool,  turning  it  for 
twenty  minutes  ;  take  out  the  damper,  get  on  a  brisk 
fire,  and  boil  ninety  minutes,  turning  as  often  as  once 
in  ten  minutes.  Take  out,  and  rinse  immediately^ 
and  dry  the  most  convenient  way. 


Fa^t  Maroon,     100  Ihs.   Wool, 

Boil  a  suitable  kettle  ;  then  take  75  lbs.  good  cam- 
wood, 1  lb.  Aleppo  galls,  and  4  lbs.  pulverized  red 
tartar,  and  put  them  into  seven  very  coarse,  thinly 
woven,  hemp  bags  ;  boil  the  above  two  hours,  then 
cool  to  180  deg.  Rake  up  well,  and  enter  the  wool, 
turning  well  for  fifteen  or  twenty  minutes ;  get  on  a 
brisk  fire  and  boil  three  hours,  turning  at  intervals  of 
ten  minutes.  Put  in  some  cold  water,  and  take  out 
the  wool ;  then  put  in  5  lbs.  alum  and  1  lb.  cream  of 
tartar ;  allow  it  to  be  all  dissolved  ;  then  put  in  the 
wool  so  as  to  reverse  it.  Get  on  a  brisk  fire  and  boil 
ninety  minutes,  turning  the  wool  every  ten  minutes  j 
run  off  some  of  the  liquor,  take  out  the  wool,  rinse 
particularly  well,  and  dry  in  the  open  air. 


Real  Olive.     100  lbs.  Wool. 

In  a  woad  vat  at  110  deg.,  dye  the  wool  as  light  a 
blue  as  can  be  done  to  have  it  everi,  and  rinse  well ; 
boil  a  suitable  kettle,  and  put  40  lbs.  ground  fustic, 


Molony  on  Dyeing.  61 

3  lbs.  common,  and  4  lbs.  good  common  madder,  in- 
to three  large  bags,  and  boil  one  hour  in  the  kettle ; 
cool  to  170  deg.  Rake  up  well,  enter  the  wool,  and 
turn  it  for  twenty  minutes ;  then  get  on  a  brisk  fire 
and  boil  three  hours,  turning  every  ten  minutes ;  take 
out  the  wool,  run  off  some  of  the  liquor.  Dissolve 
2  lbs.  copperas,  and  1  lb.  sulphate  of  copper ;  cool 
the  dye-stuff  to  170  deg. ;  put  in  the  copperas,  &c.; 
rake  up  well,  put  in  the  wool,  and  turn  it  for  ten  oi 
fifteen  minutes ;  get  on  a  brisk  fire  and  boil  one  hour, 
turning  every  ten  minutes  ;  draw  out  the  fire,  and  let 
the  wool  remain  in  the  dye-stuff  all  night.  Run  off 
the  dye-stuff,  take  out  the  wool,  rinse  well,  and  dry 
in  the  atmospheric  air,  if  the  weather  will  permit. 


Dove  Drab.  100  lbs.  Wool. 
Take  a  kettle  of  clean  water,  and  boil ;  then  put 
in  2  lbs.  Alleppo  galls  pulverized,  4  oz.  camivood, 
and  2  lbs.  red  tartar;  boil  these  drugs  thirty  min- 
utes, then  cool  with  clean  water  to  160  deg.  Putin 
the  damper,  rake  up,  and  put  in  the  wool,  turning  it 
briskly,  so  as  to  reverse  it  all,  and  continue  handling 
for  twenty  minutes ;  take  out  the  damper,  get  on  a 
strong  fire,  and  commence  boiling,  and  continue  for 
ninety  minutes.  Allow  40  or  50  gallons  to  run  out ; 
then  take  out  the  wool.  Dissolve  12  oz.  copperas 
and  4  oz.  sulphate  of  copper  ;  cool  to  160  deg.  and 
put  in  the  last  named  articles  ;  rake  up  well  and  en- 
ter the  wool ;  put  in  the  damper,  turn  diligently  for 


62  Molony  on  Dyeing, 

twenty  minutes,  then  take  out  the  damper,  get  on  a 
strong  fire,  and  boil  for  ninety  minutes,  observing  to 
reverse  the  wool  by  handling  well  with  a  large  pole? 
every  ten  minutes .  Draw  the  fire,  run  in  some  vva- 
ter,  and  turn  the  wool ;  allow  it  to  remain  in  the  ket- 
tle all  night ;  take  out,  rinse  well,  and  dry  the  most 
convenient  way. 


Salmon  Drab.  100  lbs.  Wool. 
Boil  a  kettle  of  cleaa  water,  and  put  in  3  or  4  lbs. 
red  tartar  pulverized,  2  lbs.  ground  fustic,  and  4  lbs. 
camwood.  Boil  one  hour,  then  cool  to  150  deg.  and 
put  in  the  damper ;  rake  up  well,  enter  the  wool,  and 
turn  so  as  to  reverse  it  for  twenty  minutes  ;  then  take 
out  the  damper,  get  on  a  strong  fire,  turning  the 
wool  every  ten  minutes ;  boil  three  hours,  put  in 
some  cold  water,  turn  the  wool,  and  run  off  the  dye- 
stuff ;  take  out  the  wool,  rinse  in  the  rinsing  box, 
and  dry  the  most  convenient  way. 


Method  of  making  Tin  Liquor j  for  Lac  Scarlet. 

Get  20  lbs.  muriatic  acid,  and  2  lbs.  sulphuric  acid, 
and  put  into  two  large  pots  made  of  good  stone  ware  ; 
then  put  about  4  lbs.  grain  tin  into  an  iron  ladle  on 
a  hot  fire  to  melt ;  when  melted,  pour  it  into  a  large 
tub  of  cold  water,  letting  it  run  in  slowly  ;  then  put 
slowly  into  the  pots  of  acids,  (if  put  in  too  quickly, 
such  is  the  aflSnity  of  the  acids  for  the  tin,  that  a 


jyiolony  on  Dyeing.  53 

great  heat  will  be  excited,  and  the  pots  probably 
burst ;)  about  two  oz.  every  ten  minutes. 

No.  2.  Another  Lac  Spirit.  Use  6  gallons  mu- 
riatic acid,  1  gallon  of  single  aquafortis,  and  15  lbs. 
tin,  as  directed  above. 

No.  3.  Tin  Liquor  for  Cochineal  Scarlet,  on 
woollen  goods;  it  will  answer  also  for  Pink  or  Crim- 
son.    3  qts.  muriatic  acid  for  40  oz.  tin. 

No.  4.  Tin  Liquor  for  Logwood  or  Puce.  Use 
3  gallons  muriatic  acid  for  6  lbs.  tin. 

No.  5.  Tin  Liquor  for  Bark  Yellow.  2  gallons 
muriatic  acid  and  2  qts.  sulphuric  acid ;  feed  with  7 
lbs.  tin. 


Tin  Ldquors  for  Cotton. 

No.  I.  Red.  Use  8  qts.  muriatic  acid  and  2  qti. 
double  nitric  acid  :  feed  with  8  lbs.  tin,  in  the  same 
manner  as  before  prescribed. 

No.  2.  Logwood  Purple  on  woollen  or  cotton 
goods.  Put  4  quarts  muriatic  acid  into  a  large  Stone 
pot,  and  feed  it  slowly  with  as  much  grain  tin  as  i% 
will  hold  in  solution. 

No.  3.  For  Bark  Yellow  on  cotton.  Put  36  lbs. 
muriatic  acid  and  9  lbs.  sulphuric  acid  into  two  large 
stone  pots,  and  feed  slowly  with  10  lbs.  8  oz,  grain 
tin,  as  before  directed. 

No.  4.  For  Barwood  Red  on  cotton.  Use  3  galls, 
muriatic  acid  and  2  qts.  double  nitric  acid,  and  feed 
slowly  with  10  lbs.  tin. 

5* 


54  Molony  on  Dyeing, 

Tin  Liquors  for  Silk. 

No.  1.  Scarlet,  Crimson  or  Geranium.  6  lbs. 
muriatic  acid,  6  lbs.  pure  double  nitric  acid,  and  4 
oz.  sal.  ammoniac  ;  feed  with  3  lbs.  grain  tin. 

No.  2.  Chocolate.  1  qt.  muriatic  acid ;  feed 
with  6  oz.  tin. 

No.  3.  Bark  Yellow.  Feed  8  qts.  muriatic  acid 
with  3  lbs.  tin. 

No.  4.  Purple.  2  gallons  muriatic  acid  and  1 
gallon  double  nitric  acid ;  feed  with  36  oz.  tin,  and 
2  oz.  sal.  ammoniac. 

No.  5.  Crimson.  1  gallon  of  muriatic  acid  and 
one  of  single  aquafortis. 


Method  of  Scouring  Woollen  or  Worsted  Yarn. 
Tf  the  yarn  be  coarse,  use  one  part  urine  to  three 
parts  of  water  at  140  deg. ;  then  make  a  strong  soap 
lather  at  140  deg.  and  handle  in  the  lather  until  it  is 
free  from  oil,  and  rinse  in  luke  warm  water. 


Red  Drab.  50  lbs.  Worsted. 
Boil  the  kettle,  and  put  in  1  lb.  ground  red  tartar, 
1  lb.  fustic,  and  4  oz.  camwood;  boil  ten  minutes, 
and  cool  with  water ;  rake  up,  enter  the  yarn,  and 
give  it  five  turns.  Then  get  on  the  fire,  turn  ev- 
ery five  minutes,  and  when  you  have  turned  eight 
times,  take  out,  and  put  in  4  oz.  more  camwood,  and 
turn  as  before.     If  wanted   a  little  on  the  blueish 


Molony  on  Dyeing.  66 

shade  of  red,  take  out,  and  use  a  little  cudbierd. — 
For  this  colour,  do  not  exceed  180  deg.  If  not  yel- 
low enough,  use  more  fustic.  Rinse  well,  and  dry 
in  a  warm  room. 


Lac  Scarlet.     50  lbs. 

Boil  6  lbs.  good  lac  dye,  40  oz.  cream  of  tartar,  1 
lb.  red  tartar,  6  pints  No.  1  lac  spirit,  and  8  oz.  yel- 
low oak  bark,  twenty  minutes  :  rake  up,  cool  the  li- 
quor, enter  the  worsted  or  yarn,  and  give  it  five  turns. 
Boll  one  hour,  turning  every  five  minutes ;  dry  the 
most  convenient  way.  If  fuller's  earth  be  used  in 
rinsing,  it  will  impart  beauty  to  the  colour. 


Cochineal  Scarlet.  40  lbs.  Worsted. 
Boil  8  oz.  yellow  oak  bark  in  a  small  bag ;  then 
put  in  4  oz.  good  cochineal,  5  lbs.  cream  of  tartar, 
and  boil  twenty  minutes ;  then  put  in  3  pints  fecarlet 
tin  liquor,  (see  page  53.)  Cool  a  little,  rake  up  well 
and  enter  the  worsted  or  yarn ;  give  it  seven  turns, 
and  commence  boiling  ;  turn  every  five  minutes,  and 
boil  two  hours ;  cool  the  liquor,  take  out  and  dry. 


Royal  Adelaide.     40  lbs.  Worsted. 
Dye  it  a  light  blue  in  a  woad  vat,  and  rinse  well ; 
then  boil  1  lb.  pulterized  cochineal,  2  lbs.  cream  of 


66  Molony  on  Dyeing, 

tartar,  and  2  pints  "  Tin  liquor  for  Scarlet."  (sec 
page  53.)  Boil  twenty  minutes,  cool,  rake  up  well, 
and  enter  the  worsted ;  give  it  seven  turns,  and  com- 
mence boiling;  turn  every  five  minutes,  and  boil  two 
hours ;  cool,  take  out,  and  rinse  well.  All  cochineal 
and  lac  colours  should  be  dried  in  the  open  air,  if 
the  weather  will  permit.  Some  people  try  to  dye 
this  colour  with  camwood;  but  so  handsome  a  shade 
cannot  be  obtained.  Add  or  diminish  the  quantity 
of  the  drugs,  according  to  the  shade  wanted,  without 
altering  the  proportions. 


Royal  Purple,  on  Circassian  Broadcloth,  or  Worsted, 
40  lbs. 
Boil  5  lbs.  ground  logwood,  1  lb.  of  alum,  run  in 
a  few  pails  of  cold  water  to  stop  the  boiling  ;  enter 
the  goods,  and  turn  carefully  for  fifteen  or  twenty 
minutes ;  then  boil  two  hours,  turning  'every  five 
minutes,  if  worsted — if  broadcloth,  it  will  require 
constant  turning.  Take  out,  run  off  about  half  the 
liquor,  put  in  the  damper,  fill  up  the  kettle  with  cold 
water,  then  put  in  about  a  pint  of  "  No.  4,  tin  liquor," 
(see  page  53 ;)  rake  up  well,  enter  the  goods,  and 
turn  very  attentively.  Get  on  some  fire  to  heat  the 
liquor,  but  do  not  boil  it.  When  done,  take  out, 
rinse  and  dry.  The  drugs  may  be  added  or  dimin- 
ished, in  the  above  proportions. 


Molony  on  Dyeing.  57 

Imitation  of  Adelaide  on  Broadcloth.  60  Ihs. 
Boil  the  cloth  three  hours  in  9  lbs.  alum,  and  2  lbs. 
pulv.  red  tartar.  If  it  is  fine  cloth,  turn  without  in- 
termission ;  (if  turned  on  a  log  or  solid  vvynch,  the 
goods  will  be  better  grounded  or  penetrated.)  Cool 
the  liquor,  rinse  well  in  the  rinsing  box,  or  in  a  run- 
ning stream.  Lay  it  out  straight  and  cover  up  for 
twenty-four  hours,  before  rinsing.  Boil  10  lbs.  ground 
logwood,  12  lbs.  peachwood,  3  lbs.  camwood,  and  2 
lbs.  red  tartar;  cool,  enter  the  goods,  commence 
boiling  and  turning  two  hours,  take  out,  rinse,  and 
done. 


To  make  Sulphate  of  Indigo. 
Take  6  lbs.  oil  vitriol,  i  lb.  Spanish  float,  or  Bengal 
Indigo,  ground  fine  as  flour  ;  put  in  the  indigo,  theii 
put  in  3  lbs.  of  the  oil  vitriol,  and  stir  five  minutes  j 
then  add  the  remainder  of  the  acid,  stir  it  ten  or  fif- 
teen minutes.  By  mixing  as  above,  it  excites  such 
heat  that  it  will  be  nearly  as  smooth  as  oil.  By  stir- 
ring the  abovenamed  time,  it  will  dye  a  better  light 
blue  in  one  hour,  on  worsted,  than  when  twenty-four 
hours  or  two  days  old.  If  wanted  for  dyeing  green 
silk,  in  twelve  or  fourteen  hours  after  being  made, 
add  by  degrees  4  or  5  galls,  hot  water.  By  doing 
£0,  the  green  can  be  done  with  less  fustic,  as  the 
acid  will  not  oppose  it  so  vigorously.  It  will  also 
preserve  the  sulphate  of  indigo  for  months  or  years. 


jS  Molony  on  Dyeing. 

To  refine  Sulphate  of  Indigo. 

Heat  a  kettle  of  clean  soft  water;  put  in  a  quan- 
tity of  the  sulphate  ;  absorb  the  strength  upon  some 
w<»oi  well  scoured;  boil  it  on  the  wool,  and  rinse  in 
cold  water.  Heat  a  kettle  of  clean  soft  water,  and 
add  a  little  pearlash ;  boil  off  the  colour,  and  save  it 
u\  a  pine  tub.     Add   a  little  sulphuric  acid  to  pre- 

S'^l\Q  it. 


To  prepare  China,  or  neutralize  Sulphate  of  Indigo. 

To  2  qts.  sulphate  of  indigo,  add  12  or  14  gallons 
rold  water;  then  add  3  or  4  qts.  carbonate  of  lime, 
(common  whiting)  by  degrees.  It  will  be  fit  for  use 
i»i  a  few  hours. 


0  is  necessary  to  have  a  box   of  Hydrameters  to  prove 
acids. 

I  am  best  acquainted  with  Twaddle's  scale,  and 
rcommend  it,  it  is  so  easily  understood  ;  although 
f>ther  glasses  may  answer  as  well.  I  believe  Baumes' 
scale  to  be  most  in  use  in  America.  66  deg.  on  the 
latter  scale,  170  deg.  Twaddle's. 

Muriatic  acid  should  stand  33  deg. 

Single  aquafortis  "         "     33  " 

iSulphuric  acid      "        ''  170  '« 


Molony  on  Dyeing,  U'j 

Method  of  Dyeing  Lavender  on  Worsted.  20  ///.t. 
Put  1  lb.  cudbierd,  well  wet  with  the  hands,  into 
a  kettle  of  clean  water  at  190  deg.  Enter  the  worti- 
led,  and  turn  it  on  the  sticks  occasionally,  for  one 
hour;  try  a  thread  of  it  in  a  weak  blue  vat,  and  if  not 
red  enough,  use  more  cudbierd ;  rinse  in  a  woad  or 
ash  vat,  not  exceeding  100  deg.  Rins^e  well,  and  dry 
in  a  warm  room. 


Magazine  Blue.  40  Ihs.  Worsted. 
Put  3  lbs.  of  cudbierd  into  a  pail,  and  add  2  or  3 
qts.  warm  water ;  stir  it  with  a  whisk,  till^  v^  et ; 
then  put  it  into  a  kettle  of  water  at  190  deg.  Put 
in  the  worsted  and  turn  it  occasionally  for  one  hour  i 
rinse  it  in  cold  water,  then  handle  it  in  a  woad  vot  at 
about  120  deg.  until  blue  enough.  If  not  red  enough, 
return  to  the  cudbierd ;  and  if  the  liquor  be  not 
strong  enough,  add  more  of  the  cudbierd.  Handle 
till  full  enough.  Woven  cloth  and  worsted  sturis 
can  be  dyed  on  the  same  principle. 


Chemical  Magazine  Blue*  40  lbs. 
Put  about  a  pint  and  a  half  of  sulphate  of  indigo 
into  a  kettle  of  water  at  100  deg.  Put  in  the  wors- 
ted, turn  five  times,  get  on  the  fire,  and  heat  to  loO 
deg.  Take  out  and  rinse  in  cold  water.  Boil  a  ket- 
tle of  clean  water,  and  put  in  2  lbs.  ground  logwood, 
cool  to  160  deg.  and  put  in  one  pint  "  No.  4  tin  (i- 


60  Molony  on  Dyeing. 

quor,"  (see  page  53  ;)  turn  the  worsted,  and  heat  up 
until  deep  enough  ;  rinse  and  dry  in  a  warm  room. 


Rose  Pink,  on  Worsted  or  Woven  Goods.     40  lbs. 

Boil  a  kettle  of  convenient  size,  and  put  in  about 
14  oz.  ground  cochineal,  24  oz.  cream  of  tartar,  and 
4  oz.  alum  ;  boil  twenty  minutes,  then  cool  with  cold 
water,  put  in  Ih  pints  of  "  No.  3  tin  liquor,"  (see 
page  53  ;)  rake  up  well  and  enter  the  goods,  turning 
carefully  fifteen  minutes ;  get  on  the  fire  and  boil 
ninety  minutes,  turning  occasionally  ;  cool,  take  out 
and  rinse  in  cold  water.  Lighter  pinks  can  be  done 
in  the  same  kettle,  by  diminishing  the  drugs,  and 
proportioning  as  above.  If  you  wish  to  blue  and 
pink,  rinse  well  in  cold  water,  then  get  on  a  kettle 
of  clean  soft  water,  and  heat  to  100  deg.  If  the 
quantity  be  40  lbs.  put  in  10  oz.  salt  of  tartar,  enter 
the  goods,  give  eight  or  nine  turns,  then  get  on  the 
fire,  and  heat  to  160  deg.  turning  carefully  all  the 
time,  to  prevent  unevenness.  If  necessary  to  use 
more  salt  of  tartar,  cool  to  100  deg.  Then  heat  to 
160  deg.,  take  out,  rinse  and  dry  in  a  warm  room. — 
Urine  or  pearlash  will  also  blue  a  pink,  but  not  so 
delicately. 


For  Worsted  Dyeing, 
There  should  be  two  stationary  bearers,  about  42 
inches  in  height,  over  each  kettle,  to  lay  the  worsted 


Molony  on  Dyeing,  61 

on,  to  drain  in  the  kettles.  Round  kettles  are  not 
the  most  convenient  for  worsted  dyeing. 

For  dyeing  large  quantities  of  worsted,  or  long 
reeled  carpet  yarn,  the  kettles  should  be  6  feet  long, 
5  feet  deep,  and  nearly  4  feet  wide,  and  the  upper 
Und  bottom  parts  being  of  the  same  width.  Flange 
to  be  about  10  inches  wide. 

100  lbs.  of  carpet  yarn  can  be  conveniently  dyed 
in  a  kettle  of  the  above  named  size,  in  all  descrip- 
tions of  dye-houses.  I  think  it  very  important  that 
the  fire  should  be  situated  out  of  doors,  thus  saving 
much  room,  and  promoting  cleanliness. 


Cochineal  Crimson.  50  lbs.  Worsted. 
Put  50  oz.  good  cochineal,  5  lbs.  cream  of  tartar, 
and  1  lb.  alum,  into  a  kettle  of  clean  boiling  water, 
and  boil  twenty  minutes ;  cool  the  liquor,  put  in  5 
pints  "  No.  3  tin  liquor,"  (see  page  53 ;)  enter  the 
worsted,  give  it  five  turns,  then  a  turn  every  five 
minutes,  for  three  hours.  Cool,  take  out  and  rinse 
well.  Get  a  kettle  of  clean  soft  water  to  100  deg. ; 
then  put  in  16  or  18  oz.  pearlash;  handle  the  wor- 
sted 7  turns,  then  heat  to  160  deg.,  which  should 
not  be  exceeded.  If  not  blue  enough,  use  more  of 
the  fixed  alkali.     Rinse,  and  dry  in  a  warm  room. 


Madder  Red  on  Flannel,     60  lbs. 
Boil  in  a  suitable  kettle,  then  put  in  12  lbs.  Amer- 


62  Molony  on  Dyeing. 

ican  alum,  2  lbs.  red  tartar,  and  1  lb.  "  No.  1  tin 
liquor,"  (see  page  53.)  Boil  the  flannel  three  hours, 
and  keep  it  well  spread  on  the  wynch ;  cool,  take 
out  the  goods,  and  list  out  straight  in  cooling,  and 
cover  it  in  a  large  basket  to  prevent  its  drying. — 
(Pack  sheets  or  wool  bags  are  very  suitable  for  this 
purpose.)  Allow  it  to  remain  to  sour  twenty-lour 
hours;  then  rinse  well.  Take  21  lbs.  good  cropped 
madder,  and  put  it  into  a  large  tub  of  hot  water  ; — 
put  about  one-fourth  of  the  madder  into  a  kettle  of 
cold  water,  commence  wynching,  put  on  a  fire,  turn 
constantly.  In  fifteen  or  twenty  minutes  put  in  an- 
other part  of  the  madder,  (getting  up  the  heat  grad- 
ually ;)  in  fifteen  minutes  more  put  in  the  remainder 
of  the  madder.  The  liquor  should  not  boil  in  less 
than  100  minutes  from  the  commencement.  When 
it  boils  a  few  minutes,  take  out,  rinse  well,  and  dry 
in  tenters. 

P.  S.     Use   7   lbs.   wheat   bran   in   the   madder 
kettle. 


j1  new  method  of  Dyeing  Fast  Red  on  Woollens. 

[invented   by   the   author   in   NOV.  1833.] 

For  60  lbs.  woven  goods  or  worsted,  a  strong  red. 
Into  a  suitable  kettle  of  boiling  water,  put  about  4 
lbs.  camwood,  and  boil  it  twenty  minutes ;  cool, 
rake  up,  and  enter  the  goods ;  boil  and  turn  care- 
fully for  ninety  minutes  ;  take  out  the  goods  ;  put  in 
12  oz.  yellow  oak  bark,  or  citron,  9  lbs.  alum,  4  lbs. 


Molony  on  Dyeing.  63 

red  tartar,  and  3  pints  "  No.  2  tin  liquor,"  (see  page 
53.)  Rake  up,  handle  the  goods  carefully,  and  boil 
three  hours  ;  take  out,  and  cover  the  goods  careful- 
ly to  prevent  drying.  Allow  it  to  remain  in  that 
state  48  hours,  if  time  will  permit ;  then  rinse  well 
in  cold  water.  Get  on  a  kettle  of  clean  water,  and 
put  in  18  or  20  lbs.  of  mungeete.  When  the  water 
is  a  little  warm,  enter  the  goods,  and  bring  on  the 
heat  slowly  ;  (it  should  not  boil  in  less  than  ninety 
minutes.)  Turn  all  the  time.  (It  does  not  require 
boiling.)  Take  out,  rinse  and  dry.  This  colour 
will  pierce  the  thickest  double  milled  cloth  manu- 
factured. 


Bark  Yellow  on  Flannel.  60  lbs. 
Put  7  lbs  citron,  or  yellow  oak  bark,  into  a  bag 
made  of  thin  cotton  cloth ;  allow  it  to  remain  in  the 
kettle  at  196  deg. ;  cool  a  little,  and  put  in  a  littl© 
more  than  a  quart  "  No.  5  tin  liquor,"  (gee  page  53,) 
3  lbs.  alum,  and  2  lbs.  cream  of  tartar ;  enter  the 
goods,  and  turn  constantly  until  deep  enough.  The 
colour  will  be  rather  brighter  by  not  boiling  the 
bark.  If  a  very  deep  yellow  is  wanted,  the  tartar 
may  be  dispensed  with,  as  it  does  not  assist  in  pro- 
ducing it,  but  promotes  that  delicate  green  shade  of 
yellow  so  generally  admired  and  approved. 


Scarlet  Barree.     60  Ihs,  Flannel. 
Dye  the  flannel  a  yellow,  as  abovementioned. — 


64  Molony  on  Dyeing. 

Boil  three  hours  in  12  lbs.  American  alum,  4  lbs. 
red  tartar,  and  2  pints  "  No.  5  tin  liquor,"  (seepage 
53  ;)  turn  at  intervals  during  the  process  ;  cool,  take 
out  and  rinse.  Put  20  lbs.  mungeete  into  a  kettle  of 
clean  water ;  enter  the  goods,  get  on  a  fire,  and  be- 
gin to  turn  when  the  water  is  warm;  keep  it  in  90 
minutes,  without  boiling ;  take  out,  rinse,  and  dry 
the  most  convenient  way. 


Royal  Purple  on  goods  made  of  cotton  &l  wool.  60  lbs. 
In  such  goods  the  warp  is  generally  cotton.  Boil 
7  lbs.  ground  logwood,  and  2  lbs.  alum ;  cool  the 
liquor  with  clean  water,  rake  up  well,  enter  the 
goods,  turning  carefully ;  boil  two  hours ;  cool  to 
100  deg.  take  out,  and  put  in  12  oz.  "  No.  4  tin 
liquor,"  (see  page  53 ;)  rake  up,  turn  twenty  min- 
utes, heat  to  150  deg.;  take  out,  and  rinse  well  in 
clean  water.  Boil  1  lb.  Malaga  sumac  in  2  galls, 
of  water,  and  put  it  into  a  large  tub  of  cold  water  ; 
steep  the  goods  in  it  one  hour  ;  then  dissolve  2  lbs. 
alum  in  1  gall,  hot  water,  and  put  it  into  a  large  tub 
of  cold  water,  and  give  the  goods  three  or  four  turns 
in  that ;  then  rinse  slightly  in  cold  water.  Boil  3 
lbs.  logwood  in  3  galls,  water,  and  put  it  into  a  large 
tub  of  cold  water ;  handle  the  goods  fifteen  or  twen- 
ty minutes,  and  take  out;  dissolve  1  lb.  alum  in  hot 
water,  and  give  the  goods  three  or  four  turns  ;  take 
out,  rinse  well,  and  dry  the  most  convenient  way. 


Molony  on  Dyeing.  65 

Peachwood  Red.     CO  lbs.  Flannel. 

Into  a  suitable  kettle  of  boiling  water,  put  lOi  lbs. 
English  alum,  2  lbs.  red  tartar,  and  1  lb.  sulphate  of 
copper  pulv.  When  these  are  dissolved,  cool  and 
enter  the  goods ;  turn  for  fifteen  minutes,  then  sink 
the  flannel  in  the  liquor,  to  boil ;  boil  three  hours, 
turning  every  fifteen  minutes ;  take  out,  and  allow 
the  goods  to  remain  two  or  three  days  in  a  large  tub 
or  basket  to  sour.  (The  goods  will  take  a  better 
colour,  and  do  with  less  peachwood,  than  if  dyed  the 
next  day.)  It  should  be  well  covered,  lest  some 
parts  become  dry.  It  should  be  slightly  rinsed. — 
Boil  24  lbs.  good  peachwood  twenty  minutes  ;  cool 
to  ]  90  deg.,  rake  up,  enter  the  flannel,  and  turn  it 
one  hour,  (but  do  not  allow  it  to  boil.)  If  not  deep 
enough,  use  more  peachwood.     Rinse,  and  done. 

If  thjs  flannel  has  a  cotton  warp,  boil  6  lbs.  Sicily 
sumac,  and  put  into  a  tub  of  cold  water;  steep  the 
flannel  in  it  6  hoArs  ;  put  6  lbs.  dissolved  alum  into 
another  tub  of  cold  water;  handle  fifteen  minutes, 
then  use  the  strength  of  10  lbs.  boiled  peachwood 
in  cold  water,  and  handle  in  it  fifteen  minutes ;  rinse 
and  done. 


Deep  Green.     60  lbs.  Worsted  or  Flannel. 
Get  on  a  suitable  kettle  of  boiling  water  ;  if  for 
flannel,  put  45  lbs.  ground  fustic  loose  in  the  kettle  ; 
if  for  worsted,  put  it  into  two  large  bags;  put  in  al- 
so 6  lbs.  alum  ;  boil  thirty  minutes,  and  cool ;  put  in 

6* 


QO  Molony  on  Dyeing. 

3  pints  sulphate  of  indigo,  rake  up  and  enter  the 
goods;  turn  carefully  fifteen  minutes,  get  on  the 
fire,  and  boil  ninety  minutes,  turning  occasionally  ; 
cool,  and  take  out  the  goods.  If  not  blue  enough, 
use  one  pint  more  sulphate  of  indigo  ;  enter  and 
turn  carefully  until  deep  enough.  Rinse  in  cold 
water,  and  dry  in  a  warm  room. 


Ught  Cinnamon  Brown.     20  lbs.  Woollen  Goods. 

Suppose  the  goods  to  be  Circassian.  Boil  6  lbs. 
ground  fustic,  2  lbs.  camwood,  2  oz.  cudbierd,  and 
1  lb.  pulverized  red  tartar,  fifteen  minutes;  cool, 
rake  up  well,  and  enter  the  goods ;  boil  and  turn 
ninety  minutes;  cool  to  150  degrees,  and  put  in  8 
drachms  of  copperas,  and  a  table  spoonful  of  sul- 
phate of  indigo;  rake  up,  enter  the  goods,  and  han- 
dle fifteen  minutes  ;  rinse  and  dry. 


Light  Buff.  CO  lbs.  Worsted  or  Woven  Cloth. 
Into  a  convenient  kettle  of  boiling  water,  put  20 
oz.  Venice  sumac,  (young  fustic,)  and  1  lb.  carbo- 
nate of  soda,  and  allow  it  to  boil  fifteen  minutes; — 
then  put  in  1  oz.  pulverized  cochineal,  and  12  oz. 
"  No.  3  tin  liquor,"  (see  page  53  ;)  cool  to  150deg. 
rake  up  well,  enter  the  goods,  and  turn  carefully  20 
minutes  ;  boil  one  hour,  and  take  out.  If  short  of 
yellow,  use  a  little  more  young  fustic ;  if  short  of 
red,  use  a  httle  more  cochineal.     If  found  necessary 


Molony  on  Dyeing.  67 

to  use  the  extra  drugs,  the  liquor  must  be  boiled, 
and  then  cooled,  handling  aa  above.  Rinse  well, 
and  dry  the  most  convenient  way. 


Blue  Black.  30  lbs,  Circassian. 
Into  a  suitable  kettle  of  boiling  water,  put  12  oz. 
copperas,  2  oz,  alum,  4  oz.  red  tartar,  and  4  oz  sul- 
phate of  copper,  and  boil  in  that  one  hour;  take 
out,  and  list  it  smoothly,  and  put  it  to  drain  for  12 
hours.  Boil  3i  lbs.  ground  logwood  and  4  oz.  pul- 
verized red  tartar  ten  minutes,  and  cool ;  enter  the 
goods,  boil  and  turn  one  hour,  rinse  and  dry.  If 
not  deep  enough,  use  more  logwood  in  the  next  col- 
ouring. 

Crimson.  10  lbs.  Bombazine, 
Let  the  goods  be  well  cleansed  ;  then  boil  in  a 
copper  kettle,  3  lbs.  good  cudbierd  :  cool,  enter  the 
^  goods,  and  turn  about  thirty  minutes,  while  the 
liquor  is  nearly  boiling;  cool,  and  take  out.  If  it 
inclines  too  much  on  the  beet-root,  blue,  or  crimson 
shade,  put  a  table-spoonful  of  oil  vitriol  into  a  tub 
of  cold  water,  and  give  it  a  few  turns  in  that ;  it  will 
redden  k  to  a  nice  crimson.  If  the  acid  be  put  into 
warm  water,  and  the  goods  handled  in  that,  the  col- 
our will  be  dull  and  blind.  Rinse,  and  dry  the  most 
convenient  way.  By  this  method,  the  silk  will  be 
of  as  good  a  crimson  as  the  woollen  part. 


68  Molomj  on  Dyeing. 

Puce  Colour.  20  lis.  Bombazine. 
Boil  the  goods  three  hours,  in  4  lbs.  alum,  and  4 
oz.  sulphate  of  copper,  turning  carefully  all  the  while  ; 
cool  the  liquor,  take  out  the  goods,  rinse  well  in  cold 
water;  boil  2  lbs.  ground  peachwood,  and  2  lbs. 
ground  logwood;  enter  the  pieces,  turn  carefully, 
commence  boiling,  and  continue  forty-five  minutes, 
and  take  out.  If  not  red  enough,  use  more  peach- 
wood  ;  if  not  blue  enough,  use  more  logwood.  Rinse 
and  dry. 


A  Greenish  Slate.  40  lis.  Worsted. 
This  colour  is  termed  in  England  a  "  Glove  Drab." 
Pat  into  a  suitable  kettle  of  boiling  water,  20  oz. 
ground  logwood,  3  oz.  sumac,  and  4  oz.  ground  fus- 
tic, and  boil  these  drugs  twenty  minutes ;  then  cool 
to  160  deg.  Putin  4  oz.  copperas,  and  one  table- 
spoonful  of  oil  vitriol ;  rake  up,  enter  the  worsted, 
and  give  it  8  or  9  turns  ;  get  on  the  fire,  and  heat  to 
ISO  deg.  (but  do  not  allow  it  to  boil;)  continue  the 
process  one  hour.  If  not  green  enough,  takeout, 
and  put  in  a  little  more  fustic;  if  not  blue  enough, 
use  a  little  more  logwood  and  sumac.  Rinse  in  cold 
vfater,  and  dry.  Some  may  think  it  imprudent  to 
use  oil  vitriol  to  this  colour ;  but  without  it  the  shade 
will  be  less  lively  and  delicate,  and  less  et^enly  dyed. 


Chocolate.     60  ihs.   Worsted. 
Boil  3^  lbs.  fustic  and  12  oz.  ground  logwood  iif- 


JMolony  on  Dyeing,  69 

teen  minutes  ;  then  cool  a  little,  and  put  in  1  lb.  red 
tartar  pulv.,  and  2  lbs.  cudbierd,  wet  in  3  or  4  pints 
of  warm  water ;  rake  up,  enter  and  turn  carefully 
for  fifteen  minutes ;  boil  ninety  minutes,  and  turn  a? 
often  as  once  in  five  minutes ;  hang  the  worsted  on 
the  bearers,  (which  should  be  placed  over  the  kettle.) 
Dissolve  8  oz.  copperas,  and  cool ;  rake  up,  enter 
the  worsted,  and  turn  carefully  fifteen  minutes,  then 
heat  to  170  deg.,  turn  every  five  minutes,  and  con- 
tinue the  process  one  hour;  cool  the  liquor,  take 
out  the  worsted,  rinse,  and  dry  the  most  convenient 
way.  If  this  colour  is  not  strong  enough,  a  larger 
quantity  of  drugs  may  be  used,  in  the  same  propor- 
tions. 


Chemical  Bottle  Green,  100  lbs.  Cloth. 
Get  a  convenient  sized  kettle  of  boiling  water,  and 
put  in  60  lbs.  chipped  fustic  and  10  lbs.  alum,  and 
allow  it  to  boil  one  hour,  then  cool  the  liquor  to  160 
deg.,  and  put  in  2  qts.  sulphate  of  indigo,  rake  up 
well,  enter  the  cloth,  and  commence  wynching.  If 
the  cloth  be  very  thick,  boil  three  hours.  For  flan- 
nel one  hour's  boiling  is  sufficient.  If  not  blue 
enough,  take  out  the  cloth,  add  more  chjmic  or  sul- 
phate of  indigo.  Rake  up  well,  enter  the  goods,  and 
boil  till  blue  enough  ;  cool  the  liquor,  take  out  the 
cloth,  rinse  in  a  running  stream,  or  in  a  fulling-mill. 
Then  put  into  boiling  water,  7  lbs.  logwood  and  7 
lbs  fustic,  and  boil  thirty  minutes ;  then  put  in  1  lb» 


70  Molony  on  Dyeing. 

copperas;  rake  up  well,  cool  the  liquor,  and  enter  ; 
boil,  and  spread  on  the  wynch,  until  deep  enough. 
If  not  dark  enough,  more  copperas  and  logwood  may 
be  added.     Ptinse  well,  and  dry  in  tenters. 


Method  of  Cleansing  Woollen  Cloths  fo?'  Dyeing 
Take  some  fuller's  earth,  and  let  it  perfectly  dry 
in  a  stove  or  warm  room ;  put  it  into  a  large  tub, 
and  wet  with  hot  water.  If  perfectly  dry,  it  will  dis- 
solve. Dampen  the  cloth  by  sprinkling  with  a  little 
cold  urine  and  water;  then  sprinkle  it  moderately 
thick  with  the  earth,  (G  or  7  times  before  wetting,  is 
sufficient;)  cleanse  in  the  fulling-mill. 


Middling  Green.  CO  Ihs.  Flannel. 
Put  30  lbs.  good  fustic  and  6  lbs.  alum,  into  a 
kettle  of  boiling  water,  and  boil  thirty  minutes;  then 
add  a  quart  of  sulphate  of  indigo  ;  cool  to  IGO  deg., 
and  enter  the  flannel ;  keep  the  flannel  well  spread 
on  the  wynch,  and  boil  one  hour,  turning  constant- 
ly. If  not  blue  enough,  take  it  out,  cool  the  liquor, 
and  put  in  some  more  sulphate  of  indigo,  and  handle 
the  flannel  as  abovementioned,  until  deep  enough. 
Take  out,  and  spread  on  a  wooden  horse,  and  cool 
at  its  full  width.  Rinse  in  cold  water,  and  dry  as 
quickly  as  possible.  If  chemical  green  on  woollen 
goods  be  left  too  long  without  drying,  the  colour  will 
become  uneven. 


Molony  on  Dyeing.  7 1 

Pea  Green.  30  lbs.  Worsted. 
Into  a  kettle  of  boiling  water,  put  2  lbs.  ground 
fustic,  and  2  lbs.  alum,  and  allow  it  to  boil  thirty 
minutes;  then  cool  to  140  deg.  and  put  in  1  lb.  sul- 
phuric acid,  and  a  table-spoonful  of  sulphate  of  in- 
digo ',  rake  up  well,  enter  the  worsted,  and  turn  it 
very  briskly  for  fifteen  minutes  ;  get  on  a  fire  and 
heat  to  170  deg.  (which  should  not  be  exceeded  in 
dyeing  a  light  pea  green.)  If  not  quite  blue  enough, 
take  out  the  worsted,  cool  theUquor  to  140  deg.  and 
put  in  a  little  more  sulphate  of  indigo.  It  may  be 
necessary  to  use  a  little  more  fustic;  in  that  case, 
the  kettle  should  be  made  to  boil,  and  then  be  cool- 
ed to  140  deg. ;  then  use  the  extra  sulph.  of  indigo, 
and  enter  the  worsted.  It  may  be  necessary  to  heat 
the  liquor  to  a  higher  degree.  For  this  colour  the 
worsted  should  be  constantly  turned,  until  it  comes 
to  a  conclusion.  This  is  the  method  I  have  pursued 
for  several  years,  and  I  have  found  it  to  be  the  best 
method  of  producing  a  delicate  even  colour.  When 
the  dying  process  is  finished,  rinse  well  m  cold  wa- 
ter, and  dry  as  quickly  as  possible. 


General  Remarks  on  Worsted  Dyeing. 
In  dyeing  drabs  of  any  shade  on  worsted,  it  is  very 
important  that  the  dyeing  drugs  be  previously  boiled 
or  scalded,  viz.  fustic,  ebony,  logwood,  cudbierd,  ar- 
chill, sumac,  tartar,  and  copperas.  In  drab  dyeing 
on  worsted,  or  any  woven  goods,  as  stuffs,  merinoe«, 


72  Molony  on  Dyeing. 

or  milled  cloths,  the  heat  should  not  exceed  150  degv 
when  the  goods  are  entered  ;  and  not  more  than 
half  the  quantity  of  drugs  necessary  to  produce  the 
colour,  should  be  put  in  at  one  time,  lest  the  colour 
be  uneven. 

The  greatest  trouble  met  with  by  pattern  dyers,  is 
occasioned  by  being  too  liberal  in  using  drugs;  and 
if  used  more  sparingly,  they  would  not  be  so  often 
disappointed. 

By  putting  ground  fustic  into  a  drab  kettle,  with- 
out having  been  previously  boiled  or  scalded,  it  will 
continue  to  yield  its  strength  for  so  long  a  time,  that 
the  most  careful  workman  may  be  deceived ;  and 
more  particularly  so,  if  he  cannot  finish  the  shade 
very  quickly.  Ebony  is  not  so  uncertain,  if  used 
without  previous  boiling  or  scalding,  as  it  yields  its 
strength  quicker.  Logwood  is  tedious  in  yielding 
its  strength.  In  dyeing  drab  worsted,  a  considera- 
ble quantity  of  red  tartar  is  necessary,  to  make  the 
colours  even.  In  changing  the  shades,  if  a  bright 
red  tinge  be  wanted,  camwood  will  produce  it ;  if 
not  red  enough,  and  a  dull  shade  be  wanted,  madder 
is  best ;  if  wanted  on  the  blueish  red,  cudbierd  will 
best  promote  it.  If  necessary  to  green  the  shade 
with  copperas,  use  fustic  very  sparingly,  as  in  that 
case,  the  drab  is  short  of  fustic.  When  the  copperas 
is  put  in,  add  a  little,  and  it  will  yield  its  strength. 
Logwood  will  likewise  yield  its  strength,  when  used 
with  copperas ;  (I  mean  in  a  copperas  liquor,  on 
woollen  goods  of  any  description.)     Some  very  nice, 


Molony  on  Dyeing.  73 

delicate  shades  of  green  drabs,  are  blued  with  sul- 
phate of  indigo,  instead  of  copperas  :  in  that  case,  it 
should  be  refined  sulphate,  as  no  other  is  fit  to  use 
with  chemical  drabs.  It  will  work  well  with  ebony, 
fustic,  logwood  or  copperas  in  drab  dyeing,  without 
injuring  either  drugs.  Light  brown  olive,  or  light 
green  olive,  should  be  saddened  very  cool,  not  ex- 
ceeding 120  deg.  when  the  goods  are  first  put  in,  or 
the  goods  will  darken  unevenly.  The  heat  should 
be  obtained  by  degrees,  as  the  colour  may  require, 
and  more  particularly  so  in  cloth  dyeing.  In  sad- 
dening worsted,  or  fulled  cloth,  dyed  brown,  if  ne- 
cessary to  use  copperas,  it  should  be  previously  dis- 
solved in  hot  water,  and  enough  of  the  liquor  run 
off  to  allow  that  in  the  kettle  to  be  cooled  to  90  dag. 
Any  brown,  dyed  with  camwood  and  fustic,  if  it  hap- 
pen to  be  too  red  from  excess  of  camwood,  is  almost 
a  hopeless  case.  If  the  colour  is  to  be  matched  ex- 
actly, the  best  method  I  have  ever  found,  in  such  a 
case,  is  to  sadden  with  sulphate  of  indigo,  instead  of 
copperas.  It  will  counteract  the  red,  three  shades 
at  least,  more  than  copperas  will.  All  cloths  dyed 
colours  which  require  boiling,  should  be  boiled  three 
hours  or  more,  (particularly  if  made  of  fine  wool,) 
and  made  thick  in  the  fulling  mill ;  otherwise  it  will 
not  be  so  well  grounded. 


Slate  Colour.     60  lbs.  Worsted. 
For  a  very  handsome  blue  slate,  boil  24  oz.  ground 
7 


74  JMolony  on  Dyeing. 

Campeachy  logwood  ten  minutes  ;  then  add  3  oz. 
dissolved  copperas  and  4  oz.  cream  of  tartar  ;  cool 
to  160  deg.  rake  up  well ;  enter  the  worsted  and 
turn  carefully  for  ten  or  fifteen  minutes ;  get  on  a 
brisk  fire,  and  boil  one  hour,  turning  every  five  min- 
utes. If  not  blue  and  dark  enough,  cool  and  take 
out  the  worsted ;  then  add  more  logwood  and  cop- 
peras in  proportion  to  the  shade  wanted.  Com- 
mence, and  continue  the  process  till  dark  enough. 
If  a  slight  shade  of  red  is  wanted,  it  can  be  obtained 
by  using  some  more  cream  of  tartar,  and  a  little  cud- 
bierd.  (Cudbierd  will  do  its  duty,  even  if  used  in  a 
liquor  for  dyeing  black.)  Handle  till  deep  enough. 
Any  shade  of  slate  can  be  produced  by  pursuing  the 
above  method,  by  adding  or  diminishing  the  drugs. 
Dry  the  most  convenient  way. 


Another  Method  of  Dyeing  Slate.  100  lbs.  Stocking 
Worsted. 
Put  5  lbs.  ground  logwood  into  a  large  hair  seive, 
then  put  it  over  a  large  tub,  and  pour  30  or  40  galls, 
boihng  water  upon  it;  take  out  the  clear  liquor  into 
a  large  kettle  ;  put  in  8  oz.  alum  ;  when  it  is  at  180 
deg.  put  in  2  oz.  sulphate  of  copper;  rake  up  well, 
enter  the  worsted,  and  turn  it  for  twenty  min- 
utes ;  boil  one  hour ;  cool,  and  take  out  the  worsted 
and  cool  it.  Put  in  the  strength  of  3  lbs.  more  log- 
wood, 2  oz.  sulphate  of  copper,  and  soap  enough  to 
make  the  lather  stand  well  on  its  surface  when  raked 


J\Iolony  on  Dyeing.  75 

up.  Recommence,  turn  fifteen  minutes,  then  boil, 
and  turn  thirty  minutes ;  take  out,  rinse  in  luke  warm 
water,  and  dry  in  a  warm  room.  Add  or  diminish 
the  dye-stuffs,  according  to  the  shade  wanted. — 
Slates  dyed  as  above,  will  stand  soap  washing  near- 
ly as  well  as  blue. 


Royal  Blue,     30  Ihs.  Worsted^  or  Woven  Woollens. 

Boil  the  goods  three  hours  in  5  lbs.  alum,  and  8 
oz.  red  tartar.  Put  20  lbs.  of  copperas  into  a  kettle 
of  clean  water  at  120  deg.;  enter  the  worsted,  and 
turn  well  for  fifteen  minutes ;  take  out,  and  rinse 
well  in  a  running  stream.  Get  another  kettle  of  wa- 
ter to  140  deg.  and  put  in  5  lbs.  of  pearlash,  turn 
the  worsted  in  that  ten  minutes ;  rinse  slightly  in 
cold  water,  and  return  it  to  the  copperas,  handling 
as  before  from  one  kettle  to  the  other  till  you  get  a 
sufficient  quantity  of  copperas  on  the  goods;  which 
can  be  ascertained  by  trying  a  small  quantity  in  a 
pot  at  160  deg.  with  a  little  prussiate  of  potash,  afid 
then  adding  a  few  drops  sulphuric  acid.  If  neces- 
sary to  add  more  copperas,  use  from  one-fourth  to 
one-half  as  much  as  before;  enter  the  goods,  turn 
a  few  minutes,  and  heat  to  180  deg.  handle  fifteen 
minutes,  rinse,  and  return  from  one  liquor  to  the 
other  as  before.  If  the  pearlash  be  not  strong 
enough,  add  more.  Get  on  a  kettle  of  clean  soft 
water,  and  heat  to   140  deg.     Dissolve  38  oz.  of 


76  Molony  on  Dyeing. 

prussiate  of  potash,  and  put  into  it ;  enter  the  goods, 
and  handle  fifteen  minutes ;  then  take  out,  and  put 
in  as  much  oil  vitriol  as  will  barely  change  the  prus- 
siate to  a  greenish  colour;  enter  the  goods,  and  turn 
carefully  twenty  minutes,  and  heat  to  170  deg.  If 
the  liquor  looks  too  green,  use  a  little  more  oil  vit- 
riol. Let  the  goods  remain  thirty  minutes,  then 
take  out,  cool,  and  enter  again.  Take  out  again  in 
thirty  minutes,  rinse,  and  dry  in  the  open  air,  if  the 
weather  will  permit. 

Observations. — When  I  left  England,  in  1829^  I 
knew  of  but  two  dyers  who  were  masters  of  this  col- 
our, viz.  Messrs.  Melon  &l  Almon,  of  Wakefield.  I 
have  found  out  this  method  by  my  own  trials  in  this 
country  ;  and  by  it,  the  shade  may  be  dyed  as  light 
or  as  deep  as  wanted.  This  is  the  only  colour  on 
woollen  goods  in  England,  which  I  was  not  in  the 
habit  of  dyeing,  and  I  think  it  probable  that  some 
other  dyers  may  be  acquainted  with  a  quicker,  and 
perhaps  cheaper  method  of  producing  it;  but  if  my 
directions  be  followed,  the  workman  will  not  be  dis- 
appointed in  producing  a  lively  blue.  I  have  seen 
several  professors  of  the  colour,  some  English,  some 
French,  some  Dutch,  who  have  left  Europe  within 
two  years,  who  have  failed  of  producing  as  good  a 
colour,  while  their  methods  were  more  tedious  and 
expensive  than  mine  :  yet  I  am  of  opinion,  that  it 
can  be,  and  is  done  in  an  easier  and  better  method 
than  I  am  in  possession  of  at  present. 


Molony  on  Dyeing.  77 

SILK  DYEING. 

The  most  certain  method  of  taking  Gum  out  of  Silk. 

For  20  lbs.  silk,  use  4  lbs.  soap  made  of  whale  oil, 
or  if  that  cannot  be  obtained,  use  4  lbs.  hard  brown 
soap,  cut  finely,  and  dissolved  in  a  kettle  of  water 
near  boiling  heat.  (The  standard  is  190  deg.  Fah- 
renheit.) Put  the  silk  on  round  poles,  and  enter  it 
in  the  kettle;  raise  and  low^er  it  for  twenty-five  min- 
utes, and  then  turn  it  on  the  poles,  and  tend  the  same 
way  for  twenty-five  minutes  more ;  take  out,  and 
wring  at  the  post,  and  wash  the  suds  from  it  with 
cold  water;  then  put  a  slight  twist  in  it,  and  put  10 
lbs.  on  7  cords  of  cotton  rope;  tie  the  ends  of  the 
cords  together,  and  put  the  silk  into  a  bag  made  of 
thin  linen,  or  coarse  cotton  cloth.  Empty  the  ket- 
tle of  suds,  and  fill  it  with  water.  Boil  4  lbs.  white 
hard  soap  cut  finely,  and  rake  up  w^eli ;  put  in  the 
bag  of  silk,  and  boil  it  two  hours  ;  then  rinse  in  luke- 
warm water,  to  take  out  the  suds.  It  is  then  fit  for 
dyeing. 

If  this  silk  is  to  be  made  white,  the  method  is  as 
follows  : — Put  some  finely  ground  indigo  into  some 
clean  soft  water ;  put  the  silk  on  the  poles,  and  make 
up  a  lather  of  white  hard  soap,  and  bring  it  to  scald- 
ing heat,  and  put  in  a  small  quantity  of  the  indigo 
water  to  blue  it.  Be  careful  not  to  put  in  too  much 
blueing  at  a  time.  If  you  wish  for  a  tinge  of  red, 
put  a  few  drops  of  archill  into  the  same  liquor. — 
Wring  at  the  post,  and  hang  it  in  the  sulphur  house, 
using  3  lbs.  sulphur  in  an  iron  pot.     Allow  it  to  re- 


78  Molony  on  Dyeing 

main  twelve  or  fourteen  hours.  In  case  the  silk  be 
not  blue  enough  for  your  pattern,  put  a  small  quan- 
tity of  the  Ci^ar  indigo  water  into  cold  water,  (use  it 
cautiously)  If  the  water  be  a  little  hard,  it  will  blue 
the  silk  as  much  as  two  shades  without  the  indigo 
water.  If  you  want  a  French  gray,  use  indigo  water 
to  pattern.  If  silk  is  blued  after  being  sulphured,  it 
must  be  done  in  cold  water,  whatever  the  shade  may 
be. 


A  Sulphur  Mouse 
Should  be  7  yards  long,  and  2  yards  wide,  made  per- 
fectly tight,  having  a  valve   at  the   top  to  let  off  a 
small  portion  of  the  gas,    to  prevent  damaging   the 
goods,  or  making  them  tender. 


For  preparing  Annoita. 
Boil  6  lbs.  annotta  thirty  minutes,  in  12  or  14  galls. 
of  water,  with  7   lbs.  pearlash   in  it.     This  method 
will  answer  for  silk  or  cotton. 


The  sirtngth  of  Alum  Mcrdantsfor  Skein  Silk, 
Should  be  generally  4  deg.  on  Twaddle's  Hydrome- 
ter ;  if  intended  for  piece  silk,  it  should  be  from  6  to 
8  on  the  above  scale.  Skein  silk  should  generally 
be  allowed  three  hours,  at  least,  in  the  alum  mordant, 
blue  black  excepted,  for  which  thirty  minutes  are 
sufficient. 


Molony  on  Dyeing.  79 

III  Dyeing  Copper  Crimson, 
Either  on  piece  or  skein  silk,  the  mordant  should 
stand  from  6  to  8  deg.  (Twad.)  and  not  ex'jeed  8 
deg,for  any  colour  on  any  kind  of  silk.  It  may  not  be 
convenient  in  piece  silk  dyeing,  to  allow  it  three  or 
four  hours  in  the  alum  mordant,  which  is  the  reason 
why  it  should  be  made  stronger  for  woven  silks  than 
for  skeins. 

At  the  above  strength,  if  silk  remain  even  four 
days,  it  wiU  not  be  injured  or  prevented  from  taking 
any  colour  which  requires  a  previous  alum  prepara- 
tion. It  is  very  important  in  silk  dyeing,  when  alum 
is  dissolved  in  boiling  water,  to  allow  it  to  be  quite 
cool  before  entering  the  silk  ;  otherwise  it  will  de- 
prive the  silk  of  its  lustre  and  beauty,  and  leave  it 
but  little  handsomer  than  cotton. 


To  prepare  Alum  Mordant  for  all   Colours,  Cochineal 
Crimson  excepted. 

Suppose  the  tub  to  be  used,  to  contain  SO  galls  : 
use  about  25  or  30  lbs.  American  alum,  in  case  of 
not  having  No.  1,  Twaddle's  Hydrometer. 


To  make  a  sirong  Iron  ^Mordant  for  Prussian  Blue,  on 

Silk  or  Cotton. 

Take  40  lbs.  single   aquafortis,   and  add  to  it  10 

galls,  of  cold  water;  then  add,  by  degrees,  5   lbs.  of 

turnings  of  malleable  or  very  thin  hoop  iron  ;  also, 


80  Molony  on  Dyeing. 

add  by  degrees  about  3  lbs.  of  copperas.  (Do  not 
feed  it  too  quick,  as  much  gas  would  waste  by  so 
doing.)  It  will  probably  require  eight  or  ten  hours 
to  consume  that  quantity  of  iron.  When  all  the  iron 
is  taken  into  solution,  put  about  half  the  quantity  in- 
to 60  galls,  of  water;  rake  up  well,  and  enter  the 
goods,  handling  twenty  minutes  or  more,  according 
to  the  shade  required.  If  the  iron  liquor,  when  raked 
up,  stands  at  4  Twaddle,  it  is  very  strong.  When  a 
quantity  of  silk  or  cotton  is  prepared  in  this  solution, 
and  it  is  necessary  to  keep  it  strong,  add  some  of 
the  prepared  nitrate  of  iron.  When  the  mordant  is 
weak,  it  may  be  necessary  to  wring  out  the  goods, 
cool,  and  enter  again. 


To  prepense  Safflour. 
Put  the  safflour  into  a  bag,  and  wash  it  by  beetling 
in  cold  water,  to  take  out  the  yellow  colouring  mat- 
ter. The  brightness  of  the  colour  depends  much  on 
cleansing  it  properly.  When  sufficiently  cleansed, 
there  will  be  an  appearance  of  yellow  in  the  water 
which  is  pressed  from  the  bag.  Take  the  safflour 
from  the  bag,  and  dissolve  2  oz.  pearlash  to  each  lb. 
ofsafflour  ;  add  the  dissolved  pearlash,  and  stir  well 
for  ten  minutes,  and  allow  it  to  soak  in  the  same  three 
hours  ;  then  squeeze  out,  and  save  the  liquor.  Put 
the  safflour  into  another  tub  of  water,  and  for  each 
pound  add  1  oz.  of  pearlash,  dissolved  as  before. — 
This  is   called  the    '  second  bleeding.'     Stir  it  well 


Molony  on  Dyeing.  81 

ten  minutes,  and  squeeze  out  the  safflour.  If  the 
colouring  matter  is  thoroughly  extracted,  the  safflour 
will  be  colourless.  If  strength  still  remain,  soak  it 
as  before,  only  use  less  pearlash. 


Skein  Silk 
Is  generally   dyed  on  very  smooth,  thin  sticks,  and 
divided  into  separate  heads  on  each  stick,  (each  head 
contains  generally  about  4   oz.)   and   wrung  on  a 
dyer's  post.     (See  description  in   a  former  article.) 


Method  of  Dyeing  Pink  mth  Safflour.  10  lbs.  Cotton. 
This  colour  is  never  dyed  as  deep  on  cotton,  as 
when  wanted  to  dye  silk  with.  Let  the  safflour  be 
prepared  according  to  the  directions,  (see  page  80.) 
Take  a  tub  ofconvenient  size,  and  put  in  the  strength 
of  5  or  6  lbs.  safflour,  and  put  in  some  water  ;  then 
put  in  about  half  a  pint  of  oil  vitriol,  and  turn  the 
cotton  in  that  liquor  about  an  hour.  Take  it  out, 
and  put  it  into  a  tub  of  clean  cold  water.  It  will  be 
a  very  high  rose  pink.  Let  it  lie  in  the  water,  till  it 
is  wanted  to  dye  pink  on  silk.  Put  about  5  lbs. 
more  cotton  into  the  liquor,  to  get  all  the  strength 
of  the  safflour,  as  it  is  a  very  dear  article  ;  and  put 
in  a  little  sulphuric  acid,  that  the  strength  may  be 
all  extracted.  The  cotton  may  not  be  carefully 
turned,  as  the  silk  is  to  be  coloured  by  extracting 
the  colour  from  the  cotton. 


82  Molony  on  Dyeing. 

Method  of  Dyeing  Pink  with  Safflour,  on  Silk. 

If  a  blue  shade  of  pink  be  wanted,  use  a  little  ar- 
chill in  a  very  weak  soap  lather,  in  water  at  about 
]  00  deg. ;  if  a  very  deep  shade,  and  a  shade  of  blue, 
use  as  much  archill  as  will  dye  the  silk  a  light  peach- 
blossom  or  lilac,  and  in  that  case  the  water  may  be 
hotter.  Turn  the  silk  about  ten  minutes.  If  the 
tub  of  hot  water  should  contain  60  gallons,  1  oz.  of 
white  hard  soap  is  sufficient.  (By  using  too  much 
soap,  the  archill  will  not  yield  its  strength  ;  and  if 
no  soap  be  use,  the  archill  will  be  uneven  on  the 
silk.)  It  need  not  be  rinsed  from  the  archill  liquor. 
Extract  the  colour  from  the  pink  cotton,  by  using  a 
little  pearlash  in  the  bath  of  cold  water.  Add  as 
much  tartaric  acid  as  will  turn  the  liquor  to  a  crim- 
son hue;  then  turn  or  handle  the  silk  till  deep  enough 
of  colour.  If  necessary,  use  more  of  the  safflour 
liquor.  When  deep  enough,  use  a  little  cream  of 
tartar  in  lukewarm  water,  and  dry,  without  rinsing, 
in  a  warm  room.  If  the  colour  should  be  too  blue, 
have  the  water  at  140  deg.  and  put  in  some  more 
cream  of  tartar;  it  will  make  the  colour  redder. — 
It  is  not  necessary  to  use  archill  for  any  pink,  unless 
a  blue  shade  is  wanted. 

If  the  silk  is  not  to  be  dyed  to  pattern,  it  is  a  great 
saving  to  use  archill ;  and  if  too  much  be  not  used, 
the  colour  will  be  much  more  delicate  and  handsome. 

Geranium  on  Silk.     10  lbs. 
In  dying  cochineal  colours  on  silk  with  a  tin  li- 


Molony  on  Dyeing.  83 

quor,  (for  10  lbs.  fine  silk,)  the  tubs  should  be  three 
feet  deep,  in  a  circular  form,  like  a  bell ;  the  bottom 
about  nine  inches  diameter,  and  the  top  about  twen- 
ty inches.  The  tub  should  be  made  of  white  pine 
wood.  Put  in  some  clean  water  at  120  deg.;  then 
put  in  1  pint  No.  1  tin  liquor,  (see  page  54 ;)  rake 
up  well,  and  allow  it  to  settle  thirty  minutes  ;  put  in 
the  silk,  and  turn  it  smoothly  and  carefully  (so  as  not 
to  disturb  the  bottom)  about  fifteen  minutes ;  then 
turn  every  ten  or  fifteen  minutes,  for  about  two 
hours.  Squeeze  it  out ;  then  put  24  oz.  good  ground 
cochineal  into  the  bottom  of  the  tub,  fill  with  clean 
boiling  water,  rake  up,  and  cover  it  with  a  cover 
made  to  fit,  and  allow  it  to  settle  thirty  minutes. — 
Put  in  the  silk,  and  turn  it  constantly  one  hour  ;  then 
turn  every  fifteen  minutes  for  three  hours.  Then 
sink  the  silk  under  the  liquor,  (but  not  so  as  to  touch 
the  bottom.)  When  it  has  been  in  twelve  hours, 
take  out,  wring  at  the  post,  and  dry  in  a  warm  room. 
Do  not  rinse  it,  as  it  will  make  it  uneven  to  a  real 
certainty. 


Fine  Cochineal  Scai'Iet.  10  lbs.  Silk. 
Prepare  20  oz.  good  annotta,  as  directed  on  page 
78,  and  put  it  into  a  kettle  of  water  at  170  deg.,  ad- 
ding about  4  oz.  white  hard  soap  ;  handle  the  silk 
in  thishquor  about  twenty  minutes,  (If  the  annotta 
is  made  hotter  than  170,  it  w^ill  not  produce  as  full  a 
colour,  from  the  same  quantity.)     Rinse  in  lukewarm 


S4  JHolony  on  Dyeing 

water,  to  get  out  the  suds.  Put  in  a  pint  and  a  half 
tin  h'quor  No.  1,  (see  page  54.)  Fill  with  water  at 
120  deg.,  rake  up  well,  and  let  it  settle  thirty  minutes. 
Put  in  the  silk  and  turn  it  carefully  about  twenty 
minutes,  then  a  turn  every  ten  minutes  for  two 
hours.  Squeeze  it  out ;  then  put  30  oz.  of  good 
ground  cochineal  into  the  bell  tub,  fill  it  with  clean 
boiling  water,  rake  up,  and  allow  it  thirty  minutes  to 
settle.  Enter  the  silk,  and  turn  carefully  and  con- 
f-tantly  one  hour,  (being  careful  not  to  disturb  the 
bottom  ;)  then  turn  every  ten  minutes  for  three  hours. 
Take  out,  wring,  and  dry  in  a  warm  room. 

The  sizes  I  have  mentioned  for  the  tubs,  are  large 
enough  for  15  lbs.  spun  silk,  and  nearly  large  enough 
for  15  lbs.  long  reeled  sewing  silk. 


Modena  Crimson.  10  lbs.  Silk . 
Fill  the  bell  tub  with  water  at  100  deg.  within  8 
inches  of  the  top  ;  then  put  in  a  pint  and  a  half  No. 
1  tin  liquor,  (see  page  54  ;)  rake  up  and  allow  it 
thirty  minutes  to  settle.  Enter  the  silk,  and  turn 
(so  as  not  to  disturb  the  sediment,)  about  thirty 
minutes ;  then  give  it  a  turn  every  ten  minutes  for 
three  hours.  Take  it  out,  and  put  thirty  oz.  good 
ground  cochineal  into  another  bell,  and  fill  with 
boiling  water;  rake  up  well,  and  allow  thirty  min- 
utes to  settle  ;  enter  the  silk,  and  turn  it  constantly 
for  one  hour ;  then  give  it  a  turn  every  ten  minutes 
for  three  hours.     Sink  it  in  the  liquor  for  eight  or 


Molony  on  Dyeing.  85 

ten  hours,  (but  not  so  as  to  touch  the  bottom;)  then 
take  out.     Get  a  large  tub  of  cold  water,  and  put  in 
8  galls,  of  the  cochineal  liquor,  (in  which    the  silk 
was  dyed.)     Turn  the  silk  carefully  in  that  for  one 
hour;  then  if  the  colour  is  not  blue  enough,  take  out 
the  silk,  and  empty    some  of  the   liquor  from  the 
large  tub,  and  add  some  more  cold  water ;  recom- 
mence, and  turn  in  it  until   blue  enough.     In  this 
method  of  dyeing,  cold  water  will  blue  the  silk  more 
than  twenty  shades.     The  use  of  the  old  cochineal 
liquor  is  to  prevent  unevenness  in  blueing.     Dyers 
who  are  unacquainted  with  this  colour,  will  think  it 
very  strange  that  cold  water  will  blue  it,  while  it  will 
not  blue  woollen  goods  of  any  description,  which 
are  dyed  in  the  same  dye-stuffs.     Some  dyers  use  a 
tub  of  cold  water  to  blue  geranium  ;  but  if  they  do, 
they  must  use  at  least   one   half  the  almost-spent 
cochineal  liquor,   otherwise   the  colour   would  not 
contrast  much  with  the  crimson.     I  do  not  disap- 
prove of  blueing  a  geranium  a  little,  if  done  as  I 
have  directed;  that  is,  if  a  slight  blue  shade  be  wan- 
ted, put  in   about  a   gallon  of  the  spirit   liquor  in 
which  the  silk  was  prepared,  with  the  almost-spent 
cochineal  liquor,  and  cold  water  in  the  large  tub. — 
I  do  not  know  a  more  dangerous  colour  to  a  young 
dyer,  than  blueing  modena  crimson  or  geranium. — 
If  wove  silk  be  dyed  geranium,  crimson,  or  scarlet, 
it  must  not  reach  the  bottom  of  the  sj>irit  tub,  or  the 
cochineal  tub;  if  it  does,  the  colour  will  be  dull  and 
blind. 

8 


86  J\Iolony  on  Dyeing, 

Copper  Crimson,     10  Ihs.  Silk. 

Steep  the  silk  four  hours  in  a  cold  alum  mordant 
at  8  deg.  No.  1  Twaddle's  Hydrometer;  then  rinse 
very  well  in  a  running  stream,  or  in  a  large  quantity 
of  water;  then  boil  2h  lbs.  cochineal,  5  oz.  pulv. 
Aleppo  galls,  and  2  oz.  cream  of  tartar ;  boil  half 
an  hour,  cool  to  170  deg.;  rake  up  well,  enter  the 
silk,  and  turn  it  constantly  and  carefully  one  hour. 
Heat  the  liquor  to  196  deg.  (but  not  boil ;)  continue 
the  process  in  the  cochineal  from  the  commence- 
ment to  the  conclusion,  about  two  hours.  Rinse 
well  in  cold  water,  and  dry  the  most  convenient  way. 

JVote, — By  dyeing  the  silk  a  light  buff,  with  pre- 
pared annotta  and  soap,  it  will  save  a  little  cochi- 
neal. Rinse,  and  begin  as  though  it  had  not  passed 
through  the  annotta.  By  boiling  a  weak  barwood 
liquor,  and  handling  in  the  clear,  it  will  save  a  little 
cochineal.  I  should  prefer  doing  without  annotta 
or  barwood,  to  using  too  much  of  either. 


Method  of  setting  a  liquor  for  Dyeing  Lavender  on  Silk. 
Boil  14  lbs.  good  chipped  logwood  three  or  four 
hours ;  strain  off  the  clear  Irquor  into  a  tub  contain- 
ing 60  gallons.  Put  30  lbs.  muriatic  acid  and  15 
lbs.  double  nitric  acid,  into  a  large  stone  ware  pot. 
Then  melt  3  lbs.  of  grain  tin,  and  pour  it  slowly  in- 
to a  tub  of  water  to  make  it  light.  Empty  the  water, 
and  dry  the  tin  in  a  warm  dry  room,  and  add  it  by 
degrees  to  the  acids  till  it  is  all  used,  adding  also  to 


Molony  on  Dyeing,  87 

the  acids  4  oz.  sal.  ammoniac.  Add  this  tin  liquor 
to  the  logwood  liquor,  and  rake  up  occasionally  for 
three  hours.  Next  day  it  will  be  fit  for  use.  Then 
dip  the  silk,  and  handle  smoothly  till  deep  enough 
in  colour  ;  then  blue  it  to  pattern  in  refined  sulphate 
of  indigo,  or  chymic  ;  rinse  in  cold  water,  and  return 
the  liquor  back  to  the  larn:e  tub  again,  (i.  e.  if  you 
take  the  liquor  from  the  large  tub  to  dye  in.)  Dry 
in  a  warm  room.  This  quantity  of  lavender  liquor 
will  dye  500  lbs.  silk. 

N.  B.  The  refined  sulphate  of  indigo  must   be 
used  in  the  same  liquor  in  which  the  silk  was  dyed. 


Imperial  Blacky  on  Silk  in  the  gum.  10  lbs. 
Wet  the  silk  io  warm  water,  and  wring  it  at  the 
dyer's  post.  Boil  30  lbs.  Sicily  sumac  ;  put  half  a 
pint  of  nitrate  of  iron  into  a  sufficient  quantity  of 
water  to  turn  the  silk  in  5  go  9  turns  ;  put  it  into  the 
sumac ;  go  7  turns,  and  sink  the  silk  in  the  boiling 
sumac  for  twelve  hours.  Then  take  out,  and  give  7 
turns  in  a  weak  alum  mordant ;  cool,  and  rinse  in 
cold  water.  Dissolve  12  oz.  prussiate  of  potash  in 
hot  water  ;  add  a  little  more  than  half  a  pint  muriat- 
ic acid,  and  put  it  into  a  tub  of  water  at  100  deg. ; 
give  the  silk  9  turns  in  it,  and  rinse  in  cold  water. — 
Then  put  about  6  oz.  boiled  logwood,  and  2  oz.  dis- 
solved copperas,  into  a  tub  of  cold  water,  and  give 
the  silk  3  turns  in  it.  Rinse  in  cold  water,  wring  up, 
even  it  well,  and  dry  in  the  open  air. 


88  Molony  on  Dyeing 

P.  S.  If  you  want  this  colour  to  have  a  strong 
shade  of  blue,  give  the  silk  a  run  or  dip  in  a  weak 
alum  mordant ;  rinse,  and  then  use  the  logwood. 


Fast  Magazine  Blue.     10  lbs.  Silk. 

When  the  silk  is  boiled  for  dyeing,  boil  15  lbs.  of 
good  archill,  and  cool  the  liquor  to  170  deg.;  enter 
the  silk,  and  turn  it  for  thirty  minutes ;  take  out, 
wring  at  the  post,  and  shake  it  well.  Put  12  oz, 
silk  on  a  stick,  and  turn  it  in  the  woad  vat  for  silk, 
until  blue  enough ;  then  wring  out,  and  put  it  into 
cold  water  to  prevent  unevenness.  Rinse  well  in  the 
river,  and  wring  at  the  post.  Make  a  strong  lather 
of  white  soap  in  cold  water,  and  use  some  dissolved 
pearlash  in  it.  Handle  the  silk  in  it  fifteen  minutes. 
If  too  red,  use  more  pearlash ;  if  too  blue,  use  more 
soap.  Wring  very  even,  and  dry  in  a  room  not  very 
hot. 

P.  S.     The  woad  vat  may  be  cold,  but  should  not 
exceed  90  deg.  for  this  colour. 


Fast  Lavender. 
Dye  a  very  light  blue ;  then  steep  four  hours  in  a 
strong  alum  mordant ;  rinse  well  in  cold  water. — 
Boil  8  drachms  of  cochineal  for  each  lb.  of  silk,  cool 
the  liquor  to  190  deg.,  and  continue  the  process  at 
that  heat  one  hour,  or  until  red  enough.  It  may  be 
necessary  to  use  a  little  more  cochineal.     Fast  violet 


I 


Molony  on  Dyeing.  89 

can  be  done  in  the  same  way,  by  using  more  cochi- 
neal ;  say  1  oz.  to  each  pound  of  silk ;  and  making 
it  a  deeper  blue  in  the  vat.  Rinse  well,  dry,  an(i 
done. 


Gold  Colour.     10  lbs.  Silk. 

Dye  the  silk  a  light  buff,  with  prepared  annotta, 
(see  page  78,)  in  a  soap  lather  at  120  deg.  Rinse 
well  in  warm  water,  for  fear  the  alkali  would  decom- 
pose the  alum.  Turn  the  silk  into  the  alum  prepar- 
ation, and  let  it  remain  three  hours;  rinse  well  in 
cold  water.  Boil  20  lbs.  of  ^ood  straw  weld,  and  4 
oz.  pearlash,  for  thirty  minutes ;  then  strain  off  the 
clear  liquor,  and  make  up  a  tub  with  half  this  liquor 
and  the  same  quantity  of  scalding  water.  Handle 
fifteen  minutes,  then  turn  the  silk  in  a  strong  soap 
lather  at  90  deg.,  wring  up  light,  and  dry  in  a  warm 
room. 


Leghorn  on  Silk. 

Use  a  very  small  quantity  of  prepared  annotta  (see 
page  78,)  and  a  very  little  fustic  liquor,  in  lukewarm 
water.  Turn  the  silk  very  briskly  and  smootfTly. — 
If  not  yellow  enough,  use  a  little  more  fustic  ;  if  not 
red  enough,  use  a  little  more  annotta.  Wring  and 
dry  in  a  warm  room. 

8* 


90  Molony  on  Dyeing. 

Buff 

Is  dyed  with  a  little  prepared  annotta  in  a  warm 
soap  lather,  made  of  white  hard  soap.  The  lather 
for  this  buff  should  be  very  strong,  or  the  colour  will 
not  be  clear. 

P.  S.  These  receipts  will  answer  for  wove  or 
skem  silks. 


Spanish  Fly.     10  lbs.  Silk. 

Take  the  strength  of  7  lbs.  green  ebony  wood  ground 
and  use  it  in  water  at  140  deg.;  put  in   also  some 

inrefined  sulphate  of  indigo  ;  turn  the  silk  smoothly 
and  evenly.  If  not  blue  enough,  use  more  sulphate 
of  indigo;  and  if  not  yellow  enough,  use  more  boiled 
ebony  wood.  Pass  the  silk  through  a  tub  of  cold 
water,  with  a  little  sulphuric  acid  in  it,  and  dry  in  a 
warm  room. 


Dark   JMaroon  on  Silk. 

Put  the  silk  on  sticks  very  smoothly,  and  put  it 
into  the  alum  mordant ;  go  5  turns ;  sink  it,  and  let 
it  remain  three  or  four  hours  ;  rinse  in  cold  water : 
then  put  a  strong  peachwood  liquor  into  a  tub  of 
water  at  140  deg.  (use  a  little  alum  in  the  peach- 
wood  liquor,)  and  handle  until  deep  enough.  Dry 
in  a  warm  room. 

Observation. — In  dyeing  fine  silk,  having  the  gum 


Molony  on  Dyeing.  91 

boiled  out,  (which  is  then  termed  soft  silk,)  it  is  very 
important  in  using  boiled  dye-woods,  or  archill,  to 
strain  them  well,  that  no  sediment  may  adhere  to  the 
silk.  For  wove  silk,  the  dyer  need  not  be  quite  as 
particular. 


Weighted  Light  Black  on  Soft  Silk. 
Boil  20  lbs.  small  valonie,  and  3  lbs.  alum,  for 
four  hours;  then  strain  off  the  clear  liquor,  and  let  it 
cool  to  160  deg.  Enter  the  silk,  and  give  it  21  turns 
on  smooth  sticks ;  then  sink  it  in  the  liquor,  and  let 
it  remain  twelve  hours.  Take  it  out,  and  rinse  well 
in  a  large  quantity  of  water,  or  in  a  running  stream; 
wring  it  at  the  post,  and  stick  it  up  smoothly.  Dis- 
solve 3  lbs.  pearlash,  and  put  it  into  a  tub  suitable 
for  dyeing  10  lbs.  silk.  Run  it  up  with  cold  water, 
rake  up  well,  and  turn  the  silk  in  it,  fifteen  or  twenty 
minutes  ;  wring  it  with  the  hands,  (stick  up  smooth- 
ly.) Dissolve  I  lb.  copperas,  and  put  it  into  a  tub 
of  water  at  90  deg.  Rake  up  well,  and  turn  the  silk 
in  it  ten  minutes ;  then  take  out,  and  cool  in  a  tub 
of  cold  water.  Return  it  to  the  copperas,  and  turn 
ten  minutes;  take  out  and  cool  again.  Put  about S 
oz.  sulphuric  acid  into  a  tub  of  cold  water,  and  give 
the  silk  7  turns  in  that.  Rinse  in  another  tub  of  cold 
water,  and  dry  in  the  open  air. 


Blue  Black,  or  Butch  Black.     10  Ihs.  Silk. 
Turn  the  silk  in  a  weak  alum  liquor,  about  fifteen 


92  Moiony  on  Dyeing 

or  twenty  minutes,  and  rinse  slightly  in  cold  water. 
Use  the  strength  of  7  or  8  lbs.  of  logwood  in  water 
at  110  deg.  Dissolve  3  lbs.  hard  soap,  and  put  into 
the  logwood  liquor  ;  then  add  2  oz.  dissolved  sulph. 
of  copper.  Rake  up  well,  enter  the  silk,  and  turn 
until  deep  enough.  If  the  logwood  is  too  weak,  add 
more.  By  using  a  sufficiency  of  logwood,  you  can 
dye  as  deep  a  colour  as  can  be  dyed  by  any  method, 
from  the  bluest  shade  to  jet  black. 


Emerald  Green.  10  lbs.  Silk. 
Boil  3  lbs.  chipped  fustic,  and  strain  off  the  clear 
liquor.  (Steep  the  silk  previously  three  or  four 
hours  in  the  alum  mordant.)  Put  some  sulphate  of 
indigo  into  the  fustic  at  140  deg.  Handle  until  deep 
enough.  If  not  deep  enough,  use  more  sulphate  of 
indigo.  Rinse  it  in  cold  water,  with  8  oz-  oil  vitriol 
in  it  ;  turn  it  carefully  on  the  sticks  ;  wring,  and 
dry  in  a  warm  room.  Any  shade  of  light  green  may 
be  dyed  on  this  principle,  by  adding  or  diminishing 
the  drugs. 


Deej)  Gi-ass  Green,  10  lbs.  Silk. 
Use  the  strength  of  40  lbs.  green  ebony  wood 
ground  and  boiled,  and  add  sulphate  of  indigo 
enough  to  blue  it,  at  140  deg.  Give  the  silk  5  turns 
in  cold  water,  slightly  soured  with  oil  vitriol ;  wring, 
and  dry  in  a  warm  room. 


Molony  on  Dyeing.  93 

Primrose 
Is  dyed  with  a  very  little  boiled  ebony,  and  a 
tinge  of  sulphate  of  indigo,  in  lukewarm  water,  and 
dried  in  a  sulphur  house,  which  imparts  much  beau- 
ty and  delicacy  to  this  colour. 


Pink  White. 

This  colour  is  dyed  in  a  weak  soap  lather,  with  a 
very  Httle  archill  at  140  deg.  Pearl  White  is  done 
the  same  way,  by  using  a  little  clear  indigo  water 
with  the  soap  lather,  with  a  little  archill  in  it. 

Peach  Blossom  and  Lilac  is  done  in  a  weak  soap 
lather  at  140  deg.  rather  strong  of  archill.  If  not 
blue  enough,  use  a  little  pearlash  in  a  cold  soap  la- 
ther.    Dry  these  colours  m  a  warm  room. 


Orange,     1 0  lbs.  Silk. 

Use  the  strength  of  2  lbs.  of  annotta,  or  2i  lbs. 
prepared  annotta,  in  water  at  180  deg.,  using  a  little 
pearlash  and  soap ;  dry  in  a  warm  room. 

If  the  colour  is  not  red  enough,  rinse  out  of  the 
annotta,  and  give  it  a  few  turns  in  the  alum  mordant. 


Yellow.     ]0  lbs.  Silk. 
Steep  the  silk  three  hours  in  the  alum  tub,  and 
rinse  well.     Boil  20  lbs.  of  good  weld  for  thirty  min- 
utes, and  put  in  8  oz.  pearlash ;  strain  off  the  clear 


94  Molony  on  Dyeing 

liquor,  and  use  half  of  it  in  a  tub  of  water  at  1 50  deg. 
and  handle  the  silk  in  that  fifteen  minutes;  empty 
the  tub,  then  use  the  remainder  of  the  weld  in  anoth- 
er tub  of  hot  water ;  handle  fifteen  minutes,  and 
take  out.  Make  a  strong  soap  lather  at  120  deg.  ; 
turn  the  silk  in  that  ten  minutes ;  wring,  and  dry  in 
a  warm  room. 


Green  Olive.  10  lbs.  Bilk. 
Use  8  oz.  dissolved  copperas  in  cold  water,  and 
turn  the  silk  in  that  fifteen  minutes,  and  rinse  well  in 
cold  water.  Use  3  pails  of  fustic  liquor  and  1  pail 
of  logwood  liquor  in  water  at  1 10  deg.,  and  handle  in 
that  twenty  minutes.  If  not  yellow  enough,  use 
more  fustic  ;  if  not  green  enough,  use  more  log- 
wood.    Dry  in  a  warm  room. 


Brown  Olive. 
Make  it  a  buff  in  prepared  annotta,  in  a  soap  lath- 
er; rinse  in  cold  water.  Then  use  4  pails  of  boiled 
fustic  liquor,  and  1  pail  of  logwood  liquor,  in  water 
at  121  deg.  Handle  in  that  fifteen  minutes.  If  not 
brown  enough,use  some  archill  in  the  liquor.  Wring 
and  dry  in  a  warm  room. 


To  darken  an  Emerald  Green  to  a  Myrtle, 
Use  some  copperas  and  a  very  little  logwood  m 


J\folony  on  Dyeing,  95 

lukewarm  water ;  handle  fifteen  minutes,  wring,  and 
dry  in  a  warm  room. 


Slate  Colour  on  Silk. 
Use  a  little  logwood,  a  tinge  of  dissolved  copper- 
as, and  a  little  dissolved  cream  of  tartar,  in  cold  wa- 
ter. If  not  blue  enough,  use  more  logwood;  and  if 
not  red  enough,  use  more  cream  of  tartar.  Wring 
and  dry. 


Sage  Drab.     10  lbs.  Silk. 

Use  the  strength  of  8  oz.  boiled  fustic,  2  oz.  do. 
logwood,  1  oz.  of  copperas,  and  a  small  tinge  of 
cream  of  tartar,  in  cold  water  ;  turn  fifteen  minutes. 
If  not  green  enough,  use  a  little  more  logwood;  and 
if  not  yellow  enough,  use  a  little  more  fustic.  Dry 
in  a  warm  room. 


Black.     10  lbs.  Silk. 

Dissolve  8  oz.  copperas  and  1  oz.  blue  vitriol,  and 
put  into  a  large  tub  of  cold  water ;  stir  up  well,  en- 
ter the  silk,  and  give  7  turns,  then  rinse  in  cold  wa- 
ter. Then  use  the  strength  of  4  lbs.  boiled  log- 
wood liquor  in  lukewarm  water,  and  the  strength  of 
3  oz.  red  tartar  dissolved  in  boiling  water;  enter  the 
silk,  and  turn  it  thirty  minutes.  If  not  deep  enough, 
use  more  logwood  ;  if  not  jet  enough,use  a  little  fus- 


96  Molony  on  Dyeing. 

tic  liquor.  Then  pass  the  silk  through  a  tub  of  water 
at  130  deg.  to  take  off  the  red  shade  and  improve 
the  colour.  Wring,  and  dry  in  rather  a  cool  room. 
Any  shade  of  black  may  be  obtained  on  this  prin- 
ciple. 


Light  Fawn  Drab,  10  lbs.  Silk. 
Use  the  strength  of  8  oz.  fastic,  a  little  archill,  a 
a  very  little  prepared  annotta,  and  about  1  oz.  dis- 
solved copperas,  in  lukewarm  water;  handle  twenty 
minutes.  If  not  red  enough,  use  more  archill  ;  if 
not  yellow  enough,  use  more  fustic.  Wring,  and 
dry  in  a  warm  room. 


Beaver  Drab. 

Use  a  very  little  logwood  liquor,  a  tinge  of  archill, 
a  tinge  of  copperas,  and  a  tinge  of  red  tartar.  If 
not  red  enough,  use  a  little  more  archill ;  if  not 
enough  on  the  slate  colour,  use  a  little  logwood ;  if 
not  yellow  enough,  use  a  little  more  fustic.  Beware 
of  using  too  much  of  the  drugs  in  this  colour.  Dye 
it  in  a  tub  of  cold  water,  and  dry  it  cool. 


Esterhazy  Drab,  or  Blue  Fawn.     10  lbs.  Silk. 

Put^  lbs.  dissolved  copperas  into  a  tub  of  cold 
water  ;  stir  up  well,  and  give  the  silk  7  turns  in  it, 
(don't  rinse.)    Then  use  a  little  archill,  a  little  fus- 


Molony  on  Dyeing,  97 

tic,  a  little  logwood,  and  two  or  three  drops  oil  vit- 
riol, in  cold  water,  and  turn  fifteen  minutes.  If  not 
yellow  enough,  use  more  fustic  ;  if  not  red  enough, 
a  little  more  archill ;  if  not  blue  enough,  a  little 
more  copperas  will  blue  on  the  archill.  Wring, 
and  dry  rather  cool. 


Crimson  V^at^  containing  60  gallons. 
Boil  150  lbs.  ground  peachwood  for  thirty  or  for- 
ty minutes,  and  put  in  6  or  8  oz.  newly  slacked  lime, 
to  extract  tlie  strength  of  the  peachwood  ;  strain  off 
the  clear  liquor,  and  when  it  cools  to  90  deg.  put  in 
9  galls,  of  "Tin  Liquor  for  Crimson,"  (see  page  54.) 
Rake  up  well,  and  it  will  be  fit  for  dyeing  crimson, 
in  two  or  three  days.  (This  liquor  should  be  used 
in  a  pine  tub.)  To  dye  pink  with  this  liquor,  take 
some  of  it  and  mix  with  cold  water.  If  the  pink  is 
not  blue  enough,  use  a  little  pearlash  in  cold  water, 
and  it  will  nearly  equal  asafflour  pink.  This  liquor 
should  be  used  cold.     Rinse  in  cold  water,  and  dry. 


Common  Scarlet. 
Dye  the  silk  a  light  orange,  then  turn  it  in  some 
of  the  crimson  liquor  until  deep  enough. 


Fast  Chocolate.     10  lbs.  Silk. 
Boil  14  lbs.  camwood  ;  cool,  and  put  in  4  oz.  oil 


©i  Molony  on  Dyeing » 

vitriol ;  turn  the  silk  fifteen  or  twenty  minutes,  then 
take  out,  and  rinse  in  cold  water.  Dissolve  1  lb, 
copperas,  and  put  into  a  tub  of  cold  water  ;  turn 
the  silk  in  this  until  dark  enough.  Rinse  in  cold 
water. 

P.  S.  This  receipt  is  for  woven  silk.  It  will  not 
answer  to  colour  fine  skein  silk  among  loose  dye- 
stuffs. 


Purple  V^at,  containing  60 gallons. 
Boil  180  lbs.  chip  logwood,  put  in  8  oz.  quick 
lime,  and  continue  to  boil  four  hours ;  strain  off  the 
clear  liquor,  and  when  cooled  to  90  deg.  put  in  8 
galls.  *'Tin  Liquor  for  Purple,"  (see  page  54  ;)  rake 
up  well,  and  it  will,  in  a  few  days,  be  fit  for  dyeing 
royal  purple.  Take  off  the  clear  liquor,  into  a  clean 
pine  tub,  and  handle  till  deep  enough.  Blue  to  pat- 
tern with  refined  sulphate  of  indigo.  Rinse  in  cold 
water,  and  dry  in  a  warm  room. 


Claret  Brown  on  Silk. 

Allow  it  to  remain  three  hours  in  the  alum  tub, 
then  rinse  in  cold  water  ;  then  use  some  peachwood, 
fustic,  and  a  little  logwood  ;  (peachwood  ought  to 
be  the  greatest  part.)  If  not  blue  enough,  use  more 
logwood;  if  not  red  enough,  more  peachwood  j  and 
if  not  browii  enough,  use  more   fustic.     Dye  it  at 


Molony  on  Dyeing.  99 

about  1 30  deg.  of  heat.     Almost  any  shade  of  brown 
may  be  dyed  on  this  principle. 


Light  Yellow  Brown.     10  lbs.  Silk. 
Alum  it  three  hours ;  use  the  strength  of  3  lbs. 
boiled  fustic,  and  of  12  lbs.  boiled   peachwood   in 
water  at  140  deg.     If  not  yellow  enough,  use  more 
fustic  J  if  not  red  enough,  more  peachwood. 


Rich  Cinnamon  Brown.  10  lbs.  SUk. 
Take  the  strength  of  1  lb.  annotta  prepared,  (see 
page  78,)  and  put  it  into  water  at  170  deg.,  and  add 
some  pearlash ;  handle  in  it  twenty  minutes,  and 
rinse  in  cold  water ;  then  put  6  oz.  dissolved  cop- 
peras into  a  tub  of  cold  water,  and  turn  in  that  fif- 
teen minutes,  rinse  well,  and  stick  up  the  silk. — 
Then  use  the  strength  of  4  lbs.  fustic  boiled,  in  wa- 
ter at  140  deg.  If  not  red  enough,  use  some  archill 
liquor  in  the  fustic  j  if  not  dark  enough,  use  a  very 
little  copperas  and  8  oz.  dissolved  red  tartar,  othei- 
wise  the  copperas  being  on  the  top  might  cause  un- 
evenness. 


Common  Scarlet ;  the  simplest  method. 
Use  the  strength  of  2h  oz.  annotta  prepared,  (see 
page  78,)  in  water  at  170  deg.  with  a  Httle  pearlash 
and  soap  ;  handle  twenty  minutes,  and  rinse  in  cold 


100  Molony  on  Dyeing. 

water;  then  steep  it  three  hours  in  the  common 
alum  tub  (see  page  79,)  and  rinse  in  cold  water ; — 
then  get  a  tub  of  water  at  120  deg.  and  put  in  about 
the  strength  of  5  oz.  peachwood  liquor,  to  each  lb. 
of  silk.  If  not  red  enough,  use  more  peachwood.— 
Wring,  and  dry  warm. 


Common  Crimson;  simplest  method.     10  lbs.  Silk. 

Steep  three  hours  in  the  alum  mordant^  (see  page 
79,)  and  rinse  in  cold  water :  then  use  the  strength 
of  3  or  4  lbs.  peachwood  boiled,  in  water  at  120  deg. 
Use  a  little  alum  to  size  it.  If  not  full  enough,  use 
more  peachwood.  Then  dissolve  8  oz.  pearlash,  and 
put  into  cold  water,  and  turn  the  silk  until  blue 
enough. 


Fast  Green.  10  lbs.  Silk. 
Steep  three  hours  in  the  alum  mordant,  (see  page 
79,)  and  rinse  well  in  cold  water,  and  stick  up  the 
the  silk  ;  boil  20  lbs.  good  weld  thirty  minutes,  and 
put  in  8  oz.  pearlash  to  extract  the  colouring  matter, 
then  strain  the  clear  liquor  into  a  large  tub,  and  put 
half  of  it  into  a  convenient  tub  or  bark,  and  make  it 
up  with  water  at  150  deg.,  and  turn  the  silk  in  that 
liquor  twenty  minutes ;  then  use  the  remainder  of 
the  weld  liquor  in  another  tub  of  hot  water,  and 
turn  the  silk  as  before  ;  take  out,  wring  at  the  post, 
shaking  it  well,  and  putting  about  12  oz,  on  each 


Molony  on  Dyeing.  101 

stick  ;  blue  to  pattern  in  a  woad  vat  just  warm  or  cold. 
Wring  light  and  even,  and  dry  in  the  shade. 

Woad  vats  are  used,  but  ash  vats  are  not,  for  silk 
dyeing,  in  London,  Coventry,  Macclesfield,  Man- 
chester and  Dublin.  The  reason  vi'hy  ash  vats  are 
unfit,  is,  by  having  too  much  pearl  or  potash,  which 
deprives  silk  of  its  lustre;  also,  if  you  fill  silk  with 
archill,  for  instance  to  dye  a  magazine  blue,  the  ash 
will  strip  the  archill,  when  in  the  vat,  and  of  course 
the  colour  is  not  done  to  shade.  If  you  use  more 
archill,  (which  must  be  the  case,)  the  colour  will  be 
dull.  Every  scientific  workman  will  avoid  as 
much  as  possible  the  use  of  either  of  the  fixed 
alkalies,  though  in  some  cases  a  little  cannot  be  dis- 
pensed with. 

Volatile  alkalies  will  not  injure  materially. — 
Silk  will  stand  more  powerful  acids  without  inju- 
ry, than  any  animal  substance ;  but  a  strong  fixed 
alkali  will  make  it  as  dull  as  cotton,  and  as  void  of 
lustre.  )iy  volatile  alkali,  I  mean  ammonia,  sal. 
ammoniac,  urine  and  lime  ;  but  urine,  I  consider 
more  of  a  fixed  alkali  than  either  of  the  others;  yet 
It  does  not  destroy  the  lustre  or  weaken  the  texture, 
as  much  as  potash. 


Beet   Root.      10  lbs.  Silk. 
Put  20  lbs  good  archill  into  a  bag,  and  boil  one 
hour,  and  stop  the  boiling ;  enter  the  silk,  and  turn 
till  deep  enough;  then  put  the  juice  of  lemons  or 

9* 


102  Molony  on  Dyeing, 

limes  into  cold  spring  water  so  as  to  make  it  taste 
sour,  and  turn  the  silk  in  it  fifteen  minutes.  If  not 
red  enough,  use  a  little  more  of  the  above  acid. — 
Dry  rather  cool.  Wove  silk  can  be  dyed  on  the 
same  principle.  By  using  more  acids,  it  will  redden 
to  crimson. 


Method  of  adding  to  the  weight  of  Sewing  SUk. 

For  each  lb.  of  silk,  boil  3  lbs.  Sicily  or  Malaga 
sumac  twenty  minutes  ;  then  turn  the  silk  in  it  sev- 
eral turns,  and  sink  it ;  allow  it  to  remain  twelve 
hours.  This  will  add  3  oz.  to  the  weight  of  every 
pound  of  silk. 


Yellow.     10  lbs.  Silk. 
Use  2  lbs.  boiled  tumeric  and  1  lb.  alum  j  dry  in  a 


warm  room. 


Green.     10  lbs.  Silk. 
Use  3  lbs.  boiled  tumeric  and  1    lb.  alum,  and   a 
sufficient  quantity  of  sulphate  of  indigo  to  green  it ; 
rinse  in  cold  water  and  dry  in  a  warm  room . 


A  Middling  Full  Brown.     )0  lbs.  Silk. 
Dye  it  a  light  orange  with  prepared  annotta  in 
water  and  a  little  soap,  at  160  deg. ;  then  steep  12 


Molony  on  Dyeing.  1 03 

hours  in  the  sumac,  and  darken  with  copperas  ; — 
rinse  in  cold  water.  If  not  red  enough,  use  some 
archill  in  hot  water;  if  not  yellow  enough,  use  some 
tumeric  with  the  archill.     Dry  in  a  warm  room. 


Slate  Colour. 
Use  some  archill  and  alum  in  water  at  100  deg. ; 
then  blue  the  silk  to  pattern  with  refined  sulphate  of 
indigo  and  alum  in  lukewarm  water.     Dry  warm. 


Weighted  Drab. 
Use  a  little  tumeric,  a  little  refined  sulphate  of  in- 
digo, and  a  little  alum,  in  water  at  100  deg.  and  it 
will  dye  a  good  sage  drab. 


Yellow  Drab. 

Use  tumeric  and  a  little  archill  in  water  at  100 
deg.  If  not  red  enough,  use  a  little  more  archill; 
if  not  dark  enough,  use  a  little  refined  sulphate  of 
indigo.  Any  shade  of  weighted  drab  can  be  done 
on  this  principle ;  observing  that  all  these  colours, 
with  the  exception  of  brown,  must  be  steeped  twelve 
hours  in  the  quantity  of  sumac  already  mentioned. 

If  silk  be  dyed  a  very  deep  blue  in  a  cold  vat,  and 
then  steeped  in  sumac,  as  the  other  colours,  3  lbs. 
of  sumac  will  add  3  oz.  to  each  lb,  of  sewing  silk. 

I  do  not  approve  of  tumeric  in  silk  dyeing ;  but 
nothing  else  will  do  as  well  for  pveighted  colours. 


104  Molony  on  Dyeing 

Method  of  preparing  an  Iron  Mordant  for  Prussian 
Blue,  for  Silk  or  Cotton. 
Put  20  lbs.  single  aquafortis  into  a  large  stone  pot^ 
and  add  by  degrees  3  lbs.  turnings  of  malleable  or 
hoop  iron,  (free  from  oxygen  ;)  add  also  by  degrees 
2  lbs.  copperas.  Very  little  iron  and  copperas  can 
be  used  at  once,  without  causing  the  acid  to  boil 
over,  and  cause  waste  ;  it  would  also  cause  too  much 
waste  of  gas.  It  will  probably  require  eight  or  nine 
hours  for  the  iron  and  copperas  to  be  consumed.  Put 
the  solution  into  50  galls,  clear  cold  water,  in  a  tub. 
When  going  to  use  it,  stir  up  well  to  mix  equally. 


Prussian  Blue  on  Silk. 

Handle  the  silk  in  the  iron  mordant  ten  minutes, 
then  sink  it  all  under  the  liquor  for  a  few  hours,  if  a 
deep  blue  is  wanted.  Rinse  well  in  cold  water  ; — 
then  pass  it  for  a  few  minutes  in  a  strong  soap  lather 
and  rinse  the  soap  well  out  in  lukewarm  water.  Get 
a  tub  of  water  at  140  deg.,  and  if  for  8  lbs.  of  silk, 
put  in  8  oz.  prussiate  of  potash,  and  12  or  14  oz.  mu- 
riatic acid  ;  stir  up  well,  enter  the  silk,  and  handle 
it  for  ten  minutes.  If  not  even,  add  more  muriatic 
acid.  (It  will  certainly  be  even,  if  dyed  on  this 
method,  and  carefully  handled.)  Rinse  well  in  cold 
water.  If  wanted  on  the  purple  shade,  dissolve 
about  4  drachms  of  ammoniate  of  copper  in  a  little 
warm  water,  and  put  into  a  tub  of  cold  water.  Stir 
up  well,  enter  the  silk,  and  handle  briskly  for  eight 


Molony  on  Dyeing.  105 

or  ten  minutes.  Do  not  rinse  from  this  process,  but 
dry  in  a  warm  room.  If  8  lbs.  more  is  wanted,  dis- 
solve half  the  above  named  quantity  of  prussiate  of 
potash,  and  put  into  the  prussiate  tub  that  the  first 
was  dyed  in,  and  treat  in  the  same  way.  Dry  in  a 
warm  room.  When  the  mordant  becomes  too  weak, 
add  more  of  the  solution  to  strengthen  the  tub. — 
Coniinue  to  strengthen  the  tub,  till  200  lbs.  of  the 
iron  solution  is  used.  The  iron  solution  should  be 
strong  enough  to  afford  a  deep  blue,  without  getting 
the  second  process  in  the  mordant. 


For  preparing  unbleached  Piece  Cotton  for  Dyeing, 
To  100  ps.  cotton  cloth,  (allowing  each  ps.  to 
weigh  Ah  lbs.)  put  12  lbs.  potash  dissolved  into  a 
vessel,  and  boil  the  goods  in  it  three  hours  ;  cool, 
take  out,  and  rinse  in  cold  water.  Get  a  tub  of  wa- 
ter at  about  120]  deg.  and  add  as  much  sulphuric 
acid  as  will  make  it  a  little  sour,  and  turn  the  goods 
with  a  reel  or  wynch,  go  three  ends,  and  rinse  well 
in  cold  water. 

Another  Method. 
Boil  the  pieces  the  same  time  in  the  same  quantity 
of  potash ;  then  wash  in  a  dash-wheel  for  ten  or  fif- 
teen minutes ;  then  pass  three  turns  in  the  hot  water 
soured  with  oil  vitriol.  Rinse  in  cold  water,  and  the 
goods  are  fit  for  dyeing. 

This  is  the  best  method  I    knov/  of.     The  price 


106  Molony  on  Dyeing 

for  dyeing  cotton  is  at  present  so  low,  that  dyers 
merely  boil  the  goods  in  clean  water ;  but  the  col- 
ours will  not  be  perfect  with  that  preparation. — 
Prussian  blue  and  other  colours  are  often  imperfect- 
ly dyed,  owing  to  the  size  remaining  on  the  goods. 
Skein  cotton  does  not  require  souring  or  dash-wash- 
ing. I  had  rather  dye  either  piece  or  skein  cotton 
in  the  brown  state,  than  dye  it  half  bleached.  I  want 
it  full  bleached,  or  not  at  all.  It  is  not  necessary  to 
use  potash  for  skein  cotton.  In  London,  they  use  a 
very  small  quantity  of  oil  vitriol  in  boiling  skein  cot- 
ton, and  rinse  in  cold  water.     This  method  I  approve. 


Barwood  Red,     20  lbs.  Cotton. 

Boil  20  lbs.  Malaga  or  Sicily  sumac,  and  give  the 
cotton  5  turns  in  it,  and  sink  for  twelve  hours.  To 
make  tin  liquor  for  this  colour,  take  5  pints  of  muri- 
atic acid,  1  pint  nitric  acid,  and  put  into  a  stone  pot ; 
feed  it  slowly  with  27  oz.  grain  tin.  When  the  tin 
is  all  dissolved,  put  the  solution  into  a  large  tub  of 
cold  water;  stir  up  well,  and  handle  the  cotton  in 
it  thirty  minutes  ;  sink  it,  and  let  it  remain  three  or 
four  hours ;  then  rinse  in  cold  water.  Boil  40  lbs. 
of  barwood  and  8  oz.  pulverized  Aleppo  nut  galls. — • 
Cool  the  liquor,  enter  the  cotton,  boil  two  hours, 
giving  a  turn  every  five  minutes  ;  take  out  and  pass 
it  through  a  cool  soap  lather.  Dry  in  the  open  air, 
or  in  a  middling  warm  room. 


Molony  on  Dyeing.  107 

Peachwood  Red.  20  lbs.  Cotton. 
Boil  10  lbs.  Malaga  or  Sicily  sumac,  and  strain 
off  the  clear  liquor;  give  the  cotton  4  or  5  turns  in 
this  liquor,  and  sink  it  for  twelve  hours.  Fill  a  suit- 
able tub  of  cold  water,  and  put  in  1  quart  of  "No.  1 
Tin  Liquor  for  Cotton,"  (see  page  53  ;)  rake  up  well, 
give  the  cotton  7  turns  in  it,  and  sink  it  for  one 
hour.  Take  out  and  rinse  in  two  tubs  of  cold  wa- 
ter, (each  tub  to  contain  as  much  as  the  spirit  tub.) 
Too  much  water  must  not  be  used  in  washing,  as 
the  cotton  would  be  deprived  of  too  much  acid. — 
Boil  14  lbs.  good  peachwood  twenty  minutes,  strain 
off  the  clear  liquor,  and  add  8  oz.  dissolved  alum. — 
Putin  the  cotton  and  turn  it  for  fifteen  minutes,  then 
give  it  a  turn  every  five  minutes  for  twenty  minutes  ; 
take  out,  and  add  about  one  quart  of  liquor  from  the 
spirit  tub  ;  rake  up  well,  and  turn  the  cotton  in  it 
till  deep  enough.  Take  out,  and  dry  in  a  warm 
room,  without  rinsing. 


Fast  Brown.  20  lbs.  Cotton. 
Boil  3  lbs.  sumac,  strain  off  the  clear  liquor,  and 
steep  the  cotton  in  it  twelve  hours ;  then  dissolve 
2  lbs.  copperas,  and  put  into  a  tub  of  lukewarm  wa- 
ter, and  turn  carefully  in  it  fifteen  minutes.  Then 
dissolve  1 6  oz.  acetate  of  lead,  and  put  into  a  tub  of 
cold  water,  and  turn  the  cotton  in  it  fifteen  minutes ; 
wring  out,  and  handle  in  it  fifteen  minutes  more. — 
Wring,  and  return  to  the  sugar  of  lead  tub,  and  han- 


J  04  JHolony  on  Dyeing, 

die  in  it  fifteen  minutes  more,  and  rinse  well  in  cold 
water.  Boil  10  lbs.  barwood  and  7  lbs.  fustic  for 
one  hour;  cool  to  160  deg.  and  turn  the  cotton  in  it 
fifteen  minutes ;  then  get  on  a  brisk  fire,  turning 
every  five  minutes ;  commence  boiling,  and  turn  un- 
til full  enough  of  colour.  Takeout,  shake  off  the 
loose  dye-stuffs,  and  rinse  in  cold  vi^ater ;  then  pass 
the  cotton  through  a  strong  soap  lather,  a  little 
warmed,  and  dry  the  most  convenient  way. 


Common  Brown.     20  lbs.  Cotton. 

Boil  4  lbs.  Malaga  or  Sicily  sumac  for  fifteen  min-g« 
utes,  strain  off  the  clear  liquor,  give  the  cotton  7 
turns  in  it,  and  sink  it  twelve  hours.  Take  out ; — 
dissolve  2  lbs.  copperas,  and  put  into  a  tub  of  warm 
water,  and  handle  in  it  for  fifteen  minutes ;  then 
take  a  tub  half  full  of  warm  water,  and  put  in  7  or  8 
pails  full  of  strong  dear  lime  water;  stir  up  well, 
and  turn  the  cotton  in  it  ten  minutes.  Get  a  large 
tub  of  warm  water,  and  put  in  a  pail  full  of  old 
urine,  stir  it  up,  put  in  the  cotton,  rinse  it  well,  and 
take  out.  Boil  7  lbs.  peachwood  and  5  lbs.  fustic  ; 
strain  off  the  clear  liquor  into  a  suitable  tub  of  hot 
water,  and  add  8  or  10  oz.  dissolved  alum  ;  rake  up 
well,  and  handle  the  cotton  in  it  twenty  minutes. — 
If  not  red  enough,  use  more  boiled  peachwood  ;  if 
not  yellow  enough,  use  more  boiled  fustic.  Dry  in 
a  warm  room,  without  rinsing. 


Molony  on  Dyeing,  109 

Deep  Purple,  20  lbs.  Cotton, 
Handle  the  cotton  ten  minutes  in  the  strength  of 
7  lbs.  boiled  logwood  warm ;  then  put  half  a  pint 
"  No.  2  tin  liquor,"  (see  page  53,)  into  a  tub  of  cold 
water,  and  turn  in  it  ten  minutes ;  rinse  in  cold  wa- 
ter, return  it  to  the  logwood,  and  handle  ten  min- 
utes, and  done. 


Another  Purple,     20  lbs.  Cotton, 
Handle  the  cotton  ten  minutes  in  the  strength  of 
^   9  lbs.  boiled  logwood  ;  dissolve  2  lbs.  alum,  and  put 
xinto  a  tub  of  cold  water,  and  handle  in  that  ten  min- 
utes ;  rinse  in   cold  water,  and  return   to   the   log- 
wood, go  7  turns,  and  done.     Dry  in  a  warm  room. 


LAlac.     20  lbs.  Cotton, 
Handle  the  cotton  ten  minutes  in  the  strength  of 
3  lbs.  logwood ;  then  handle  in  the  strength  of  1  lb. 
dissolved  alum  in  cold  water.     Dry  the  most  con- 
venient way. 


Lavender,  20  lbs.  Cotton. 
Dissolve  24  oz.  alum  and  12  oz.  acetate  of  lead  m 
one  gallon  of  water,  and  add  2  oz.  chalk ;  allow  it 
to  remain  twenty  four  hours ;  then  put  it  in  a  tub  of 
cold  water,  and  handle  the  cotton  in  it  for  ten  min- 
utes ;  then  rinse  in  a  tub  of  equal  size?  then  nm  the 
10 


HO  Molony  on  Dyeing. 

strength  of  2  lbs.  boiled  logwood  in  a  tub  of  water 
at  about  90  deg.  and  handle  in  it  for  twenty  minutes. 
Dry  in  a  room  slightly  warm. 

P.  S.    Purple,  Lilac   and  Lavender   are   fugitive 
colours,  but  will  answer  for  linings. 


Bark  Green.      10  Ihs.  Cotton. 

Dye  the  pieces  a  light  blue  in  a  hot  or  cold  blue 
vat,  and  rinse  well  in  cold  water.  Put  5  lbs.  citron 
bark  into  a  kettle  and  boil  ten  minutes,  take  off  the 
clear  liquor,  and  let  it  cool  to  180  deg. ;  then  put  in 
half  a  pint  No.  3  tin  liquor,  (see  page  53  ;)  rake  up 
well,  enter  the  goods,  and  turn  11  ends;  take  out, 
rinse  in  cold  water,  and  dry  in  a  warm  room. 

Bark  Yellow  is  done  in  the  same  way,  except  the 
yellow  is  not  blued. 


Tumeric.     \Olbs.  Cotton. 

Put  1  lb.  good  tumeric  into  2  gallons  cold  water, 
and  add  2  oz.  pearlash  dissolved  in  hot  water ;  put 
it  into  a  tub,  and  go  7  ends ;  then  dissolve  8  oz. 
alum,  and  put  into  a  tub  of  cold  water,  and  add  4 
oz.  sulphuric  acid ;  rake  up  well,  enter  the  cloth, 
and  give  it  7  turns.  Pi-inse  well  in  cold  water,  and 
dry  in  a  warm  room. 

This  is  a  very  fugitive  colour,  but  is  used  for  lin- 
ings. Some  dyers  dye  this  colour,  by  using  the 
above  proportions  of  tumeric  and  cotton,  in  water 


Molony  on  Dyeing*  111 

almost  boiling,  without  pearlash  or  alum  ;  using 
four  times  the  quantity  of  sulphuric  acid.  The  lat- 
ter method,  I  do  not  approve,  for  dyeing  piece  cot- 
tons. 


Fast  Orange.  10  lbs.  Skein  Cotton, 
Dissolve  3  lbs.  acetate  of  lead  in  hot  water,  and 
put  into  a  tub  of  cold  water ;  give  the  cotton  7  turns 
in  it.  Dissolve  24  oz.  B.  chromate  of  potash  of 
orange  crystals,  and  put  into  a  tub  of  cold  water; — 
mix  well,  and  give  the  cotton  7  turns,  ringing  mid- 
dling tight  every  dip,  and  return  to  each  liquor  two 
or  three  times.  To  make  a  strong  lime  lye  for  this 
colour,  take  2  pecks  good  lime  and  slack,  and  put 
into  100  galls,  cold  water  ;  rake  up  well,  and  allow 
it  to  settle  three  hours ;  then  take  out  the  clear  li- 
quor, and  mix  with  boiling  water  in  proportions  of 
two  parts  water  and  one  part  lime  water ;  stir  up 
well,  enter  the  cotton,  and  turn  ten  or  fifteen  min- 
utes. It  will  change  in  hot  lime  water  from  a  strong 
yellow  to  a  full  orange.     Rinse  in  cold  water. 

Piece  cotton  is  dyed  green,  yellow  and  orange, 
with  the  same  dye-stuffs  as  skein  cotton.     The  only 
difference  in  the  process  is,  that  piece  cotton  is  dyed 
in  padding  machines,  which  are  generally  used  for 
printing. 

Were  any  man  to  edge  piece  cotton  chrome  col- 
ours, his  fingers  would  ulcerate  in  a  short  time;  and 
I  am  of  opinion  that  the  pieces  would  be  unevenly 
dyed. 


112  Molony  on  Dyeing, 

A  Fugitive  Orange.  10  lbs.  Cotton, 
Boil  12  oz.  good  annotta  and  12  oz.  pearlash  fif- 
teen minutes  ;  then  strain  off  into  a  kettle  or  tub  of 
water  at  160  deg.  Dissolve  24  oz.  brown  hard  soap 
and  put  into  the  tub  ;  rake  up  well,  enter  the  cotton, 
and  handle  until  deep  enough.  Dry  in  a  warm 
room.  The  orange  will  not  absorb  all  the  strength 
of  the  drugs,  and  the  workman  can  dye  light  and 
deep  shades  of  buff  in  the  same  liquor,  by  adding  a 
little  soap  to  keep  up  the  lather.  If  a  pale  shade  is 
to  be  dyed  in  it,  it  will  be  much  improved  by  rinsing 
the  goods  in  lukewarm  water  ;  then  dissolve  2  lbs. 
alum  in  boiling  water,  and  put  into  50  galls,  of  cold 
water  ;  handle  in  that  for  ten  minutes.  It  will  red- 
den the  buff  to  a  salmon  colour,  and  impart  much 
beauty  to  the  shade.  The  above  quautity  of  alum 
will  be  sufficient  for  30  lbs.  of  piece  or  skein  cotton. 
Do  not  rinse  from  the  alum.     Dry  in  a  warm  room. 


Wood  Green.  10  lbs.  Cotton. 
Boil  4  lbs.  good  fustic  and  24  oz.  logwood,  and 
mix  hot  water  with  the  clear  liquor,  to  bring  it  to 
about  140  deg.;  handle  the  pieces  in  that  ten  min- 
utes. Dissolve  6  oz.  sulphate  of  copper,  and  put 
into  a  tub  of  cold  water,  and  handle  the  goods  3 
ends ;  return  to  the  fustic,  go  3  ends  ;  take  out,  and 
put  3  oz.  dissolved  sulphate  of  copper  into  the  fus- 
tic; return  and  go  5  ends.  If  not  green  enough, 
use  more  logwood ;  if  not  yellow  enough,  use  more 
fustic. 


Molony  on  Dyeing,  113 

Deep  Slate,  1 0  lbs.  Cotton, 
Handle  the  pieces  7  ends  in  the  strength  of  4  lbs. 
boiled  logwood  at  160  deg. ;  then  take  out,  and  dis- 
solve 2  lbs.  copperas  and  1  lb.  alum  in  boiling  wa- 
ter, and  put  both  into  a  tub  of  lukewarm  water  ;  rake 
up  well,  enter  the  pieces  and  go  5  ends  ;  take  out 
and  rinse.  A  paler  shade  may  be  produced  by  di- 
minishing the  drugs.  The  above  will  be  a  reddish 
shade.  If  a  greenish  shade  be  wanted,  use  4  oz. 
fustic  with  the  above  quantity  of  logwood  at  the 
same  heat;  use  also  the  same  quantity  of  copperas, 
but  leave  out  the  alum. 


Deep  Black.     10  lbs.  Cotton. 

Boil  6  lbs.  American  surtiac  and  6  oz.  black  oak 
bark,  fifteen  minutes;  take  off,  and  steep  the  cotton 
in  it  twelve  hours  ;  then  pass  it  through  some  clear 
lime  water,  and  rinse.  Dissolve  2  lbs.  copperas, 
adding  2  pails  sumac  liquor,  and  put  into  a  tub  of 
cold  water;  go  3  ends  in  that,  then  go  3  ends  in  the 
lime  tub,  and  rinse  well  in  cold  water.  Boil  4  lbs. 
logwood,  and  put  into  a  tub  of  water  at  120  deg.  and 
add  two  pails  sumac  liquor,  and  go  5  ends;  dissolve 
2  oz.  copperas  and  put  into  the  logwood,  and  go  2 
ends  and  rinse. 

P.  S.  American  sumac  is  about  two  thirds  the 
strength  of  the  Sicily,  if  a  good  article;  and  I  pre- 
fer it  for  black  dyeing,  as  it  yields  a  shade  of.  blue. 
I  prefer  the  Sicily  or  Malaga  for  dyeing  red  or  scar- 
let on  cotton. 

10* 


114  Mclony  on  Dyeing, 

Method  of  setting  a  Blue  V^atfor  Skein  Cotton^ 
Get  a  puncheon  or  pipe  tub,  and  first  put  in  16 
lbs.  copperas  ;  nearly  fill  it  with  water;  then  put  in 
8  lbs.  good  Bengal  indigo  ground  in  water;  then 
slack  about  14  lbs.  good  quick  lime  and  add  to  the 
vat ;  rake  up  in  half  an  hour  for  ten  minutes,  and 
rake  again  in  three  or  four  hours.  If  the  vat  is  a 
dark  green,  and  has  no  appearance  of  yellow,  put  in 
3  or  4  lbs.  more  lime,  and  rake  up  again.  When  it 
assumes  a  greenish  yellow,  you  may  consider  it  in 
good  order.  Rake  up,  and  allow  it  twelve  hours  to 
settle,  when  it  will  be  in  good  working  condition  ; 
then  dip  the  cotton,  and  take  out  and  cool.  (Do 
not  dip  more  than  30  lbs.)  Rake  up,  and  allow  it 
twelve  hours  to  settle-  (Do  not  work  cold  vats  but 
once  a  day.)  When  a  considerable  quantity  of  cot- 
ton is  dyed,  put  iii  a  little  copperas  and  lime.  If 
the  vat  is  most  in  want  of  lime,  it  will  have  a  dark 
green  appearance;  if  most  in  want  of  copperas,  it 
will  be  somewhat  yellow.  In  the  latter  case,  it  will 
require  rather  more  copperas  than  lime  ;  in  the  for- 
mer, more  lime  than  copperas.  If  not  in  either 
extreme,  use  an  equal  quantity  of  both  ;  probably  it 
may  require  about  2  lbs.  of  each. 


A  Green  that  will  stand  Bleaching.     10  lbs.  Cotton. 
Put  7  lbs.  dissolved  copperas  into  a  tub  of  cold 
water.     Make  up  a   strong  lime   tub,  rake  up,  and 
take  off  the  clear  liquor  into  a  tub ;  turn  the  cotton 


Molony  on  Dyeing.  115 

five  minutes  in  the  copperas,  wring  tight  at  the 
dyer's  post,  and  allow  it  to  cool  a  few  minutes  ;  then 
turn  it  five  minutes  in  the  clear  lime  water,  wring 
tight  and  cool  again  ;  return  it  to  the  copperas, 
wring  and  cool  as  before ;  then  return  to  the  lime, 
wring  and  cool ;  then  dip  it  five  minutes  in  the  blue 
vat,  take  out,  wring  and  cool ;  then  dip  from  tub  to 
tub,  wring  and  cool,  and  continue  the  process  from 
the  blue  vat  to  the  tubs,  till  the  right  colour  be  ob- 
tained. Rinse  well  in  cold  water,  and  give  the  cot- 
ton a  strong  soap  lather  ;  rinse  in  cold  water,  and 
dry  in  the  open  air.  This  is  a  very  dull  green,  but 
improves  much  in  bleaching,  and  is  used  for  stripes 
in  ginghams. 

Bleaching  Black  is  also  dyed  in  the  same  manner, 
having  the  lime  and  copperas  tubs  and  blue  vat  very 
strong.  It  will  also  require  dipping  oftener  from 
the  tubs  to  the  vat,  and  from  the  vat  to  the  tubs,  and 
rinsing  in  cold  water;  and  must  be  turned  in  a 
strong  soap  lather  at  140  deg.  which  is  the  proper 
heat  for  the  green  also. 


Full  Pink.  2  ps.  Cotton. 
Take  as  much  prepared  soffiour  (see  page  80.)  as 
when  dry  would  weigh  4  lbs.  and  put  into  a  tub  of 
cold  hard  water;  handle  the  pieces  in  that  by  edg- 
ing and  salvaging  with  the  hands  for  ten  minutes  ; 
then  put  in  about  half  a  pint  oil  vitriol,  and  stir  up 
well  ;  handle  the  goods  fifteen  or    twenty  minutes, 


I !  6  Molony  on  Dyeing 

and  take  out.  Dissolve  8  oz.  cream  of  tartar,  and 
put  into  a  tub  of  cold  water  ;  give  the  pieces  5  ends 
in  that,  and  dry  cool.  Any  shade  of  pink  can  be 
obtained  on  the  above  method,  by  adding  or  dimin- 
ishing. 


Bengal  Buff.  10  lis.  Cotton. 
Take  a  pint  of  "  Iron  Mordant  for  Prussian  Blue,'' 
(see  page  79,)  and  put  into  a  tub  of  cold  water  ; — 
rake  up  well,  handle  the  cotton  in  it  ten  minutes, 
and  rinse  in  cold  water.  Then  steep  8  oz.  chloride 
of  lirae,  and  put  in  a  tub  of  cold  water,  rake  up  well, 
and  allow  it  to  settle  ;  then  take  off  the  clear  liquor, 
and  put  it  into  a  tub  of  cold  water  ;  give  the  pieces 
5  ends  in  that ;  then  rinse,  and  return  to  the  iron 
mordant ;  rinse,  and  return  to  the  chloride,  and  dip 
from  one  tub  to  the  other,  till  deep  enough.  Rinse 
in  cold  water ;  then  give  the  pieces  a  strong  soap 
lather,  rinse  and  dry.  Any  shade  of  buff  can  be  ob- 
tained on  this  principle. 


Jlnother  Method  of  Dyeing  Fast  Bvff.  2  ps.  Cotton. 
Put  S  oz.  dissolved  copperas  into  a  tub  of  cold 
water  ;  dissolve  also  8  oz.  pearlash,  and  put  into  a 
tub  of  cold  water ;  turn  the  cloth  five  minutes  in  the 
pearlash  tub ;  squeeze  it  well,  and  put  it  into  the 
copperas  tub  ;  go  7  ends,  then  take  out,  squeeze  it, 
and  expose  it  for  a  fevi  minutes  to  the  air.     Return, 


Molony  on  Dyeing,  1 1 7 

squeeze  and  air  it,  from  one  tub  to  the  other,  till  deep 
enough ;  then  rinse  in  cold  water ;  then  make  a 
strong  soap  lather  at  110  deg.  and  handle  in  that  ten 
minutes ;  rinse  in  cold  water. 


Green  Olive.  9  lbs.  Cotton, 
Boil  7  lbs.  fustic,  3  lbs.  Sicily  or  Malaga  sumac, 
and  2  lbs.  logwood,  for  two  hours,  if  chipped  wood  ; 
but  if  ground,  twenty  minutes  will  answer.  Strain 
off  the  clear  liquor,  and  handle  the  cotton  in  it  twen- 
ty minutes,  at  140  deg.  Then  dissolve  24  oz.  cop- 
peras, and  12  oz.  sulphate  of  copper,  and  put  into  a 
kettle  of  cold  water,  and  stir  up  well ;  sadden  in  this 
liquor  ten  minutes ;  then  rinse  well  in  cold  water, 
return  to  the  former  tub,  and  go  5  ends  ;  take  out, 
and  put  the  strength  of  4  oz.  sulphate  of  copper  in 
the  tub;  mix  well,  and  enter  the  cotton,  g.o  5  ends, 
take  out  and  dry. 


Brown  Olive.  10  lbs.  Cotton. 
Boil  7  lbs.  ground  logwood,  24  oz.  Sicily  sumac, 
and  4  oz.  gr,  logwood,  for  20  minutes  ;  strain  off  the 
clear  into  a  tub  ;  have  it  about  140  deg.,  and  handle 
the  cotton  in  it  thirty  minutes,  and  take  out.  Dis- 
solve 24  oz.  copperas  and  12  oz.  sulphate  of  copper, 
and  put  into  a  tub  of  lukewarm  water ;  stir  up  well, 
enter  the  cotton,  and  go  7  turns  ;  take  out  and  rinse 
well  in  cold  water ;  return  it  to  the  sumac  and  log- 


118  Molony  on  Dyeing 

wood  tub,  and  go  5  ends ;  take  out,  and  dissolve  4 
oz.  sulphate  of  copper,  and  put  into  tub ;  stir  up 
well,  enter  the  cotton,  and  go  three  ends,  and  done. 
If  not  brown  enough,  use  2  or  3  lbs.  boiled  fustic  in 
another  tub  at  140  deg. 


Scarlet.      10  lbs.  Cotton. 

Boil  20  oz.  good  flag  annotta,  and  20  oz.  pearlash, 
for  fifteen  minutes,  and  strain  off  into  a  tub  of  water 
at  160  deg.;  handle  in  this  twenty  minutes,  and 
rinse  well  in  cold  water  ;  then  steep  one  hour  in  the 
strength  of  12  oz.  Malaga  or  Sicily  sumac,  in  luke- 
warm water.  Boil  2  lbs.  peachwood,  and  put  into 
water  at  120  deg.  and  add  about  4  oz.  alum  ;  handle 
in  that  twenty  minutes.  If  not  red  enough,  add 
more  peachwood  to  the  same  liquor,  and  handle  till 
red  enough.  Take  out  and  put  in  half  pint  "  Tin 
Liquor  for  Red  Cotton,"  (see  page  53,)  aod  go  3 
ends. 

P.  S.  I  have  sometimes  used  the  tin  liquor  in 
cold  water,  after  the  cotton  has  been  in  the  sumac. 
Either  method  will  answer,  but  I  prefer  the   former, 


Crimson.      10  lbs.  Cotton. 
Boil  5  lbs.  Malaga  or  Sicily  samac  for  fifteen  min- 
utes ;  take  off  the  clear  liquor  at  nearly  boiling  heat, 
and  handle  the  cotto.i  in  it  five  minutes,  and  sink  it 
for  twelve  hours  ;  then  put  half  a  pint  "  Tin  liquor 


Molony  on  Dyeing.  1 1 9 

No.  1,"  (see  page  53,)  into  a  tub  of  cold  water  ot 
about  30  gallons,  and  handle  in  that  twenty  min- 
utes ;  then  sink  it  for  one  hour.  Take  out,  and  rinse 
in  30  gallons  of  cold  water,  and  repeat  the  washing 
in  the  same  quantity.  If  washed  in  a  running  stream, 
it  would  lose  too  much  of  the  acid.  Boil  6  lbs. 
good  peachwood  fifteen  minutes ;  strain  off  the  clear 
mto  a  tub,  add  4  oz.  dissolved  alum  ;  have  it  at  about 
160  deg.  and  enter  the  cotton  ;  turn  carefully  for 
twenty  minutes ;  then  put  in  half  a  pint  tin  liquor 
for  red  cotton,  (see  page  53,)  while  the  peachwood 
liquor  is  at  100  deg. ;  handle  the  cotton  in  that 
fifteen  or  twenty  minutes,  and  it  will  blue  it  to  a 
crimson. 

Beet  Root  is  dyed  in  the  same  manner,  by  dimin- 
ishing one  third  of  the  sumac,  and  using  the  strength 
of  I  lb.  boiled  logwood  in  the  peachwood  liquor. 


Fawn  Drab.  10  lbs.  Cotton. 
Take  the  strength  of  1  lb.  boiled  fustic,  of  8  oz.  boil- 
ed sumac,  and  a  litile  prepared  annotta  liquor,  in 
water  at  120  deg. ;  enter  the  goods,  and  go  9  ends, 
and  take  out ;  then  dissolve  8  oz.  copperas,  and  put 
into  a  tub  of  cold  water,  and  add  20  drops  oil  vitriol, 
stir  up,  enter  the  cotton,  and  go  7  ends  ;  done. 


Reddish  or  Sandy  Drab.     10  lbs.  Cotton. 
Put  the  strength  of  12  oz.  boiled  fustic,  of  6  oz. 


120  Molony  on  Dyeing, 

boiled  sumac,  and  of  three  oz.  peachwood,  into  a 
tub  of  water  at  120  deg. ;  handle  the  cotton  in  that 
fifteen  minutes ;  then  dissolve  8  oz,  copperas,  and 
put  into  a  tub  of  cold  water  ;  stir  up  well,  enter  the 
cotton, and  go  7  turns;  rinse  in  cold  water, and  dry 
in  a  warm  room. 


Sage  Drab.  9  lbs.  Cotton. 
Boil  1  lb.  ground  fustic,  8  oz.  sumac,  and  2  oz. 
ground  logwood,  and  strain  the  clear  liquor  into  wa- 
ter at  120  deg.  j  go  9  ends  in  that,  and  dissolve  8  oz, 
copperas,  and  put  into  cold  water,  and  go  5  ends. — 
If  not  green  enough,  use  a  trifle  of  neutralized  sul- 
phate of  indigo,  (see  page  57 ;)  rinse  in  a  tub  of  cold 
water,  with  a  little  alum  in  it. 


Beaver  Drab.     10  lbs.  Cotton. 

Boil  8  oz.  ground  fustic  and  8  oz.  Sicily  sumac, 
and  put  into  water  at  120  deg. ;  go  9  ends  in  that ; 
then  dissolve  8  oz.  copperas,  and  put  into  a  tub  of 
cold  water ;  stir  up  well,  and  go  9  ends  in  that ; — 
done. 


Claret.     10  lbs.  Cotton. 

Have  the  strength  of  2  lbs.  boiled  sumac  nearly 
at  boiling  heat ;  give  the  goods  3  ends  in  it,  and 
sink  for  twelve  hours ;  then  take  out,  and  put  near- 


Molony  on  Dyeing.  121 

sy  a  pint  No.  1  tin  liquor  (see  page  53)  into  a  tub  of 
cold  water,  and  go  9  turns,  and  sink  for  one  hour  ; 
then  go  5  ends  in  30  gallons  of  cold  water,  and  re- 
peat the  rinsing  in  the  same  quantity.  Boil  4  lbs. 
good  peachwood  and  4  lbs.  logwood,  and  cool  to 
160  deg. ;  enter  the  pieces,  and  go  9  ends;  then 
take  out;  and  add  8  oz.  boiled  alum ;  put  in  also  3 
quarts  from  the  spirit  tub  ;  stir  up  well,  put  in  the 
pieces,  and  go  7  ends ;  dry  in  a  warm  room. 


China  Green.  9  lbs.  Cotton. 
Boil  10  lbs.  Cuba  fustic  and  6oz.  sulphate  of  cop- 
per two  hours,  and  strain  off  the  clear  ;  wynch  the 
pieces  in  it  fifteen  minutes,  and  sink  for  one  hour.— 
Dissolve  3  lbs  alum,  and  put  into  a  tub  of  lukewarm 
water ;  stir  well,  enter  the  pieces  and  go  9  ends  ; — 
return  to  the  fustic,  go  9  ends,  and  sink  for  one  hour  ; 
then  take  out  and  return  to  the  alum  and  go  9  ends, 
then  go  9  ends  more  in  the  fustic,  and  blue  it  to  a 
^reen  with  china  in  cold  water,  (1  lb.  dissolved  alum 

nd  2  pails  fustic   liquor  for  china,  see  page  58  :) — 

\ry  in  a  warm  room,  without  rinsing. 


Bright  Scarlet.     10  lbs.  Cotton. 

Boil  i  lb.  good  flag  annotta  twenty  minutes,  then 

id  1  lb.  pearlash,  arid  boil  ten  minutes;  strain  oft' 

the  clear  into  a  strong  soap  lather  8t  140  deg.,  and 

handle  the  cotton   in  it  tvs^enty  minutes  ;  then  rinse 

li 


122  Molony  on  Dyeing, 

well  in  lukewarm  water;  then  put  the  strength  of  3 
lbs.  safflour  prepared,  (see  page  80,)  and  about  1 
pint  sulphuric  acid,  into  a  tub  of  cold  water ;  stir 
up  well,  and  handle  the  cotton  in  it  thirty  minutes. 
If  not  full  enough,  use  some  more  prepared  safflour, 
and  more  sulphuric  acid,and  handle  till  deep  enough. 
If  the  safflour  has  enough  of  acid  in  it,  it  will  have 
a  crimson  appearance.  Then  boil  12  oz.  crude  tar- 
tar, and  put  into  a  tub  of  cold  water  ;  handle  the 
cotton  in  it,  and  dry  in  the  shade  or  in  a  cool  room. 
Dyeing  warm,  injures  this  colour  materially.  If  it  be 
piece  cotton,  callender  as  cool  as  can  be  conveni- 
ently done. 


^s  -m^^u 


ERRATA. 


Page  14,  line  1 — insttcul  o/"  if  dyed  in  a  rery  warm  dyehouse,** 
rearf— if  dried  in  a  very  warm  dry-house. 

Page  14,  line  ll^msiead  of*'  J2  qts.  sulphuric  acid,"  read—  1 
pint  sulphuric  aci^. 

Page  )5,  line  17 — read  "eo  that  it  does  not  make  the  staple  of 
of  the  wool  tender." 

Page  53,  No.  3  Tin  Liquor,  for  Scarlet  use  i  pint  oil  of 

vitriol  and  5  pints  muriatic  acid. 

Page  55,    Cochineal  Scarlet — read  40  oz.  good  cochineal. 

Page  59,  Lavender — instead  of  "  rinse,"  r^arf  blue  in  a  woad 
vat. 

Page  84,     Modena  Crimson — read  bell  tub,  instead  of  bell. 

Page  96,  Esterhazy  Drab — read  5  oz.  dissolved  copperas,  in- 
stead of  5  lbs. 

Page  99,  Light  Yellow  Brown— reac^  3  lbs.  boiled  fustic  and 
12  oz.  boiled  peachwood. 

Ptge  100,  Coraqjon  Crimson — Use  a  littl«  alum  to  rise  it. 

Ps^e  10]  J  Green  Silk— Wring  tight  and  even. 


amy  cfntfr  library 


